Jewish Georgia with the American Joint Distribution Committee

 Why I'm Here

The American Joint Distribution Committee (JDC) is one of the most impactful international organizations on global Jewish life and continuity. JDC operates in over 70 countries, and they save and support lives each and every day. Each Jewish community has its needs and desires. Some need more help than others. I have the privilege to work at a Jewish organization that works really hard to support the local Charlotte Jewish community and global Jewry in building connections and deepening relationships. My job title at Jewish Federation of Greater Charlotte (JFGC) is Israel & Global Jewry Associate. Building connections with the citizens of Israel is clear and obvious simply given that it possesses the largest Jewish community in the world. But global Jewry requires a different level of sensitivity, one of which I have a deep personal connection with. The two largest Jewish communities are in Israel and the United States. I owe both countries for the many gifts and experiences they have provided me. But my roots are in small, diasporic Jewish communities. My father is from South Africa and my mother is from Liechtenstein (I believe my family is over 50% of the Jewish population of that tiny country). It also cannot go unacknowledged that the Charlotte Jewish community is also small in comparison to other cities in the US. As such, through my work, I applied for a JDC Entwine trip to see the incredible work that JDC does abroad. The trip I was accepted on to be one of 25 young professionals was Georgia. 

Not Your Mama's Georgia

After spending 22 hours on three different flights, I finally landed in Tbilisi (without my baggage, but it's fine). Georgia is nestled in the Caucuses region bordering Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey, and Russia. Tbilisi, the capital city, gets its name from the Georgian word "tpili" meaning warm. This is due to the city's sulfur hot springs (highly recommend a sulfur bath). Despite what some may imagine, Tbilisi is one of the safest cities in Europe. Certainly, safer than other major European cities that I won't name who get millions of tourists. While I wouldn't recommend travelers to rent a car here, it is very safe to walk around and experience the sites and history of this old city. 

Jewish Tbilisi

According to legend, but certainly in the realm of possibility, Jews first arrived in Georgia in 500 BCE after the Babylonians expelled the Jews from the Land of Israel. The Jews set up communities in Tbilisi and other cities around the country and have been a part of Georgian life ever since. Fast forward, at one point, the community was as high as 80,000 Jews. With the fall of the Soviet Union and the disastrous economic collapse that Georgia experienced, many Jews left the country for Israel or elsewhere. Estimates today range between 3,000 and 10,000 Jews across the country. While the Jews certainly experienced intense and cruel antisemitism from the Tsarists and the Soviets, antisemitism is noticeably absent in Georgian life. My answer may be incomplete but here is what I gained from conversation with locals and walking around Tbilisi. Georgia is incredibly diverse. It is common for Georgians, Armenians, Jews, Turks, Christian Orthodox, Muslims, etc to live in very close quarters. According to locals, it is common for people to share food and stories from their traditions while maintaining their distinct identities (though assimilation is not irrelevant). The other reason I have been given is that the Jews of Georgia, while loyal to their country and having a deep history here, are considered to be guests. Jews are not involved in political leadership in this country, and it seems that Jewish leadership focuses more on supporting the local community than political engagement. 

In Tbilisi, I had the privilege to visit modern Jewish institutions in Tbilisi. I visited the Jewish Community Center which provides space and programming for the community. We learned about the Hesed Welfare Center which was established by JDC in the 1990's to support elderly and disabled Jews. The Center provides home care services and all types of assistance to those in need. As we know, human beings require social interaction other mental health can deteriorate and so Hesed provides that kind of support. We went to a home visit. Much struck me. The outside of the building looked like the stereotypical Soviet-style apartment-bloc building. After going up 7 flights of stairs, we visited an incredibly kind elderly woman. I have to say that she had made a beautifully decorated and comfortable apartment and through a translator, we got to learn her story. For the sake of privacy, I must stop there. 

Gori

From Tbilisi, we went to the town of Gori. Gori's claim to fame is it being the birthplace of Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili, known to us as Joseph Stalin. Gori is also home to small but sizeable Jewish community, and they are supported by the JDC. Gori has a small synagogue that was built in 1936 and is still in operation to this day. There is also a matzah bakery and a mikvah as well as a Hesed Center. What I particularly admired about Gori's Hesed was its support for youth in providing after-school programming that gives skills and arts. We got to see a performance and it was quite enjoyable. 

Akhaltsikhe 

Located in the southwest of Georgia and just 20 kilometers from Turkey (sadly couldn't make a quick visit), Akhaltsikhe is home to medieval fortresses and castles. The Rabati castle was built in the 9th century and was recently renovated. 

Akhaltsikhe is also home to a synagogue that was built in 1902 by Georgian Jews. The challenge is that the city has only one Jew. A young 21 year old Jew who is stuck taking care of his family synagogue. His family has been in the city for many years but Tsarist and Stalinist antisemitism as well as the post-Soviet economic collapse caused many Jews to leave. And now, there is only one. He takes care of the remaining Jewish institutional buildings and only has services on high holidays thanks to tourists. 

Good Shabbos and Shabbat Shalom

No Jewish international experience is complete without a local Shabbat experience. Fortunately, we were invited to a Chabad Shabbaton at their local kosher restaurant called Mendi's. We shared the experience with several Israeli tourists. The experience was filled with Hebrew, delicious food, whiskey, and song. Chabad of Tbilisi was very hospitable and put on a great Shabbat show. It is amazing how just about wherever you go in the world, you can find a welcoming Chabad community to provide you a meaningful spiritual experience. 

Many Jews in Georgia also know Hebrew quite well. While I am far from fluent, I can manage a conversation. I don't know any Georgian and there was something special about a Jew from the US and a Jew from Georgia communicating in Hebrew. That even though we both live in Diaspora and don't know the other's language, we can connect and communicate in our ancestral language. It felt as if doors otherwise closed were opened up and cross-global connections could be forged. 

Takeaways from Georgia

Georgia is a beautiful and struggling country. It has incredible scenery and amazing hospitality. Not only are the people here incredibly friendly but they overfeed you with delicious food. The wine is out of this world. The Jewish community struggles here alongside the larger community. They face similar challenges that other communities face. The 2,500 year old Jewish Georgian history serves as a lesson in resilience, providing support for one's community, and how people of different cultures and live together and share each other's traditions and cuisine. But we can also wrestle with factors that may not apply to us. The Georgian Jewish community may be viewed as guests but that is not the situation for many other Jewish communities. It is worth asking if the "guest" approach in which you live in a society but not participate with it proper inclusion. But if other Jews in Diaspora apply this model and antisemitism were to dramatically decrease, is it worth that cost? I don't have an answer. It doesn't solve assimilation and it hasn't kept the majority of Jews born in Georgia to stay in Georgia. Nevertheless, the Georgian Jews share a fascinating culture and tradition which they carry with them whether they be in Georgia, Israel, or elsewhere. 

The JDC does remarkable work and their unique community-model approach enables them to serve the local communities based on the needs that they express for themselves. The work they do saves lives and makes a difference for many people - people we may never know. It has been a privilege to see the work they do so far from home but that we all can connect and support. 

My deep gratitude goes to the Jewish Federation of Greater Charlotte and American Joint Distribution Committee for supporting me on this journey to learn firsthand about Global Jewry, Georgian Jewry, and the incredible unsung work that JDC does. 

Kol HaKavod. 

Tisha B'Av in Jerusalem - To See a Prophecy

Jerusalem has a holy reputation. It is known for its holy sites, fascinating history, and religious passions. Jerusalem has possession of holy sites for all three monotheistic traditions. It has some of the most beautiful churches and monuments of Christendom. It is the site of al-Aqsa mosque and the Dome of the Rock, the third holiest site for Islam. For Judaism, Jerusalem is the holiest city of them all. The importance of this city to the Jewish people is emphasized by over 600 mentions in the Hebrew Bible and the several prayers reminding us of the deep Jewish longing for return. As a part of the Jewish people, I feel that powerful connection to Jerusalem. Every time I have the privilege to go to Jerusalem, I feel something really special in my soul. In my current visit to Jerusalem, I am spending a month engaged in intensive Jewish study in the Aish HaTorah yeshiva. I have learned so much about what it means to be a Jew but I also learned to see the miracles that happen right in front of me. 

As I lived in the Old City of Jerusalem for this month, I engaged in a common activity here done by both locals and tourists - people-watch. 

It happened to be that during my month in Jerusalem, Tisha B'Av was to take place. For those who do not know, Tisha B'Av is one of the saddest days of the Jewish calendar and it is accompanied by a 25 hour long fast. It is on that day that both the first and second temples were destroyed. If that was the only tragedy on the Jewish people to fall on that day, it would have been enough. It happens to also be the day the First Crusade began which sparked pogroms of thousands of Jews by the Christian crusaders. It is the day the Spanish Inquisition began in 1492 which brought to an end one of the most influential Jewish communities of the time and further dispersing Sephardic Jewry, converting and killing many. It is also the day Germany entered World War I which led Germany down its dark path to the Final Solution and the Holocaust. These are just a few terrible tragedies to list. 

So when a Jew reflects on Tisha B'Av, the traumas of their ancestors rests on their souls. It is a day of reflection and sadness comes alongside. But out of sadness, gratitude also comes to mind. As most fasts tend to go, I often feel tired and weak after about the fifteenth hour. I suppose this is the price to pay for having the time to meditate and reflect on a number of things. This fast, I was to have it in the Old City of Jerusalem. I sat on a bench in the small plaza in front of the Ramban Synagogue (the oldest active synagogue in old Jerusalem). As I sat there to meditate on the weight of Tisha B'Av, I struggled to concentrate because of many little loud noises. Those noises came from children. For a moment, I was frustrated because these loud kids running around were disrupting my meditation. After a few minutes, I was able to get to a state of mind where I could move past the noise, but then it hit me. I need to listen to this noise and embrace this noise. This is the noise of a fulfillment of a prophecy!

Zechariah 8:4-5 - So said the Lord of Hosts: Old men and women shall yet sit in the streets of Jerusalem, each man with his staff in his hand because of old age. And the streets of the city shall be filled, with boys and girls playing in its streets.

What an amazing prophecy to witness! And how easy it is for myself or anyone to just walk by it and fail to appreciate such an amazing thing! Coming to this realization really uplifted my mood. This is what the Jewish people live for. Its about creating a Jewish society in which the streets can be filled with children playing together in safety. 

From where I was situated, I was walking distance from the Kotel which is the remaining wall of the Temple Mount that Jews pray and cry at. I really wanted to go down to it and pray on this day. Alas, that was not possible. Due to the coronavirus, I was unable to safely go down to the Kotel to pray and reflect. I could look at it all day from the Aish HaTorah balcony, but my hands would not touch it this year. To be so close and yet so far. To go to the Kotel on such a day would have been really important to me. But this year, it just was not meant to be. 

I witnessed for myself the fulfillment of a prophecy. If you ever have the privilege to visit Jerusalem then you must go to a public bench, sit down, and just watch. You will witness the fulfillment of a powerful prophecy. 

Jerusalem has no shortage of challenges ahead but this is not the piece to discuss that. I think of how important it is for people to have a space to be themselves. I know that Jews are aware of that. Throughout our history, we kept losing our places to be ourselves. We lost Judea two thousand years ago and thankfully we returned to make a new home. But I think of my own history and the places that those before me had lost. I know where in Germany my maternal grandfather used to live. In 1938, he lost that place to be. On my father's side, they were Jews of Poland and Lithuania. They lost their places to be around that same time. I think of my Sephardic and Mizrahi Jewish brothers and sisters who lost their places to be in North Africa and Middle Eastern countries. I have Jewish history on my mind - a history of always having a bag packed and ready to flee elsewhere. 

I hope and pray those days are done and that if a Jew packs a bag, its of their own free will and not due to any form of distress or persecution. 

Jerusalem is perhaps the perfect place to be on Tisha B'Av. It is not an easy holiday but Jerusalem is not an easy place. It is a city that is often in my thoughts and I hope for its success and peace. I hope that those who feel its holy essence can have the space to embrace that feeling there. 

May our prayers for peace and fulfillment be answered. 

#JewishPrivilege

Many people who seek to divide and hate have started pushing the hashtag #JewishPrivilege. I normally ignore hateful trends on the internet because they tend to be on the fringes. But this hashtag has crept into the mainstream. Many Jews have already spoken out against it citing their “#JewishPrivilege.” For the record, there is no such thing as #JewishPrivilege. At least not in the way that it is currently being used by bigoted individuals. Jews do not control the media, banks, or Hollywood. Jews are not plotting to take over the world. Jews only want to be like everyone else. To have equal rights and to be treated fairly.

But since this hate is trending, I want to share my #JewishPrivilege. 

My #JewishPrivilege was kids trying to force feed me ham because they thought it was funny. 

My #JewishPrivilege was being on the receiving end of pennies being thrown at me. 

My #JewishPrivilege is constantly being mischaracterized and misunderstood whether in the classroom or in the streets.

My #JewishPrivilege is being called Christ Killer and being told I’m going straight to hell unless I drop my Judaism and convert.

My #JewishPrivilege is constantly trying to come to terms with what horrible things happened to my ancestors but realizing that I probably will never come to terms with it.

My #JewishPrivilege is being told “get over the Holocaust” regularly. 

My #JewishPrivilege is a swastika under my door seeking to push me down.

My #JewishPrivilege is memorizing where all the exits are in all the synagogues in my city. 

My #JewishPrivilege is being ignored when I try to address real antisemitism. 

My #JewishPrivilege is being treated differently than others when I put a yarmulke on. 

These are all real things and I could list more but I hate to end on a negative ending. 

So please join me in setting a positive trend: #JewishPride. Let’s show the world why we are proud of who we are! 

I have #JewishPride because I am a member of a people tasked to be a light unto the nations and bring morality into this world.

I have #JewishPride because my Jewish brothers and sisters are capable of overcoming any obstacle when we stand together. 

I have #JewishPride because I am of a nation that has a beautiful blend of peoplehood and faith.

I have #JewishPride because I am part of a legacy that seeks justice and to lift others up to standard of equality and fairness.

I have #JewishPride because despite all of the odds, we are still alive and seeking to create a better world. 

I have #JewishPride because I am proud to be a Jew and I would not have it any other way. 

שער לאדם باب للانسان Shar La’adam

Five months can just fly by. It’s not a long period of time, but it is in a way. It’s enough time to become comfortable in a new environment. It’s enough time to be part of a new community. It’s enough time to make some incredible adventures.

I spent five wonderful months at a little place called שער לאדם (Shar La’adam - in Arabic it is pronounced Bab Lil-insan), the Entrance to Humanity. It is a very simple place, but simple in a complicated way. It’s appearance might fool you into thinking it is primitive. There are trees everywhere. There’s no real walkway. You trip on uneven steps and you roll your ankle at least once a month. You have to hike down the hill to go to the bathroom and shower. There are hippies right next door. You hear nature at all times throughout the day. Both Arabs and Jews come around and make lots of noise at the wrong hours of the day. 

But the beauty is in its simplicity. 

שער לאדם allows you to slow down. It allows you to attempt in being more incarnated.

Many of us are constantly rushed or overwhelmed by demands, deadlines, and more. We suffer through these things because we want a home, food on the table, and to buy some pleasures. 

Here, I slow down.

I breathe.

I make food with my friends.

I lay under the stars and reflect on who I am.

I strive to be better.

I connect.

I grow. 

My time at שער לאדם was nothing short of life-changing. I made some wonderful lifelong friends who I love so dearly. People whom we developed a deep trust and intimacy with each other. Going through the trauma of coronavirus together certainly helps in building a strong friendship. I will be visiting them in their respective cities whenever possible. 

I tear up a little bit now since I no longer see them every day. 

I also have to thank our two co-directors who took us under their wings and helped us learn and grow.

While I still have much to learn, I know that I will always carry a piece of שער לאדם with me. 

Sometimes the hard work comes from the simple places. 

I hope that this little place continues to grow and foster the coexistence that is so greatly needed. 

Thank you! Todah Robah! Shukran Ikthir! 

Interfaith Support Call for Teaneck, NJ 06/14/2020

Shalom and Hello to everyone from Harduf, Israel. It is a great honor for me to participate in this Interfaith call to healing. It’s quite amazing that I am able to be with you even though I am 7,000 miles away so that despite how far apart we are in distance, we are still together. 

I want to take this time to talk about Judaism’s wisdom on hope and inner strength. Judaism has many great verses of biblical wisdom and prophecy that has provided Jews a spiritual strength to persevere and survive for thousands of years. As you are likely aware, Jews are a people familiar with difficulty and hardship. So I want to discuss a bit about a Judaism of hope. 

Judaism is ultimately, a faith that by its very structure holds out to hope for the future. Rabbi Johnathon Sacks of Great Britain brilliantly points out that what makes the Hebrew Bible different than most other works of literature is that it has an amazing beginning but no satisfactory ending. There is no “and they lived happily ever after.” It ends with the Jews in exile in II Chronicles. That’s because the Jewish story has yet to end. We believe that we are constantly and regularly adding to our story of what it means to be a Jew and every single Jew is adding to the Jewish story regardless of where they were in Diaspora or whether they remained in the Holy Land. And it also means that God is still with us as we work to build a better world. Our story does not have to be in the Bible for it to be relevant to us. I find that understanding to give me a lot of hope for the future. That my story is not complete and that I have a chapter to add to the Jewish story. 

But while our story is ongoing, the Hebrew Bible still has plenty of relevance. Not only does it describe the origins of Judaism, it also provides plenty of wisdom to deal with a multitude of challenges. The Torah provides wisdom. The Nevi’im or Prophets provide wisdom. And the Kethuvim or Writings provide wisdom. And it has a fascinating way of providing comfort when needed. I want to share some words from each of the 3 sections of the Hebrew Bible in hopes that it will provide for you some comfort and strength regardless of your faith. 

Every week Jews around the world read a portion of the Torah which is called a Parshah. This practice has helped keep the Jewish story alive. It keeps the Torah on our mind as we think about it, discuss it, argue about it, and wrestle with its deeper meaning. 

Last week, Jews around the world read the Parshah Nasso, in the Book of Numbers, which holds what I believe to be one of the most beautiful blessing in the Torah. 

Numbers 6:24-27 ‘May the Lord bless you and watch over you. May the Lord cause his countenance to shine to you and favor you. May the Lord raise his countenance toward you and grant you peace. They shall bestow My Name upon the Children of Israel, so that I will bless them.’ 

God conducted this blessing through Moses as the Israelites were crossing through the Sinai Desert. 

In the Prophets, Isaiah reminds his audience about who God is and tells them to have hope and faith in God. This is Isaiah’s message of hope and strength: 

Isaiah 40:28-31 ‘Do you not know-if you have not heard an everlasting God is the Lord, the Creator of the end of the earth; He neither tires nor wearies; there is no fathoming his understanding. Who gives the tired strength, and to him who has no strength, He increases strength. Now youths shall become tired and weary, and young men shall stumble. But those who put their hope in the Lord shall renew their vigor, they shall raise wings as eagles; they shall run and not weary, they shall walk and not tire.’

At last, I want to conclude by sharing a portion of a Psalm. It is believed that David wrote the Psalms with every Jew in mind so that when tough times come, the Psalms will help provide hope, comfort, and strength. 

Psalm 91:9-16 ‘For you said, “The Lord is my refuge”; the Most High you made your dwelling. No harm will befall you, nor will a plague draw near to your tent. For He will command His angels on your behalf to guard you in all your ways. On their hands they will bear you, lest your foot stumble on a stone. On a young lion and a cobra you will tread; you will trample the young lion and the serpent. For he yearns for Me, and I shall rescue him; I shall fortify him because he knows My name. He will call Me and I shall answer him; I am with him in distress; I shall rescue him and I shall honor him. With length of days I shall satiate him, and I shall show him My salvation.’ 

These are powerful words that have provided a lot of comfort, strength, and hope to Jews across the centuries no matter where they were. I find that they not only help me in finding hope but also in looking deeper into who I am as a human and as a Jew. 

I hope these words have brought you some comfort, strength, and hope. I know we will get through these difficult times and what I hope is that our suffering and loss was not in vain. That we learn from this so that we can better protect each other and our society in the future. May the memories of those we lost forever be a blessing. May God grant us the strength to get through this difficult time and make a better world. May we carry with us strength, courage, prayer, and hope. 

Amen. 

The Siren Heard Across the Land - Yom HaShoah

Yom HaShoah Holocaust Remembrance Day. 

10:00 am. A siren sounds across all of Israel. We know this siren comes annually. Today is a day that we take to remember who we lost. An interesting question can be asked: why should we not only remember, but be reminded once every year? Does the history of the Holocaust not cause us some kind of deep pain? It does. 

There are many reasons to remember but one that sits on my mind is that it’s not just my history, it’s not just a recent history, it’s human history and its lessons are valuable to the contemporary. 

One thing I hear people say a lot is that “people are inherently good.” I don’t believe that. As a Jew I don’t believe it and as a descendent of survivors and victims, I can’t believe that. To be good is to do good. And sometimes, to do good requires a bravery greater than the average person can summon. What comes to mind when discussing the Holocaust is not just those who partook in the atrocities but also those who made excuses to remain silent. It comes to mind because there is silence towards great pain today. People remain silent about atrocities and agony across the world. Whether it be in Central America, Syria, Myanmar, China, or anywhere else - we should not have to wait for the situation to be like that of the Holocaust for us to care about those being victimized. Jews may spend the remainder of their lives remembering the Holocaust but the Holocaust is not just about the victims. It is about those who can become perpetrators and bystanders when situations arise to allow such behaviors. But also, the Holocaust is about those who in spite of all that was stacked against them, became the righteous among the nations. That’s what makes being a human being a worthy cause. It is because humans are not inherently good that it is so uplifting when humans do such amazing good. We might not be inherently good but we are capable of doing so much good. We can prevent future atrocities. I believe that since we can do so many great things despite our capabilities of doing such great evil reveals the beauty and complexity of being a human being. 

When I hear the siren of Yom HaShoah in Israel, I think of those who came before me and sacrificed so much so that I can be where I am today. I think of those who had their whole lives disrupted and were forced to rebuild. I think of the stories I need to share so that on the day there are no more survivors, I can carry the mantle and keep their stories alive. But perhaps most of all, I think of those who didn’t make it. 6 million Jews and 5 million other people who had their lives stolen from them and never truly received the justice worthy of their sacrifices. 
So let the siren sound so that we can take this moment in time, to silence the noise of our lives, for just one minute that we can pay respect to our forefathers and foremothers who sacrificed so much that we can be where we stand today. 

May we use the memory of the Holocaust to build a better future.

May we never again allow hate to destroy.

May we love the neighbor.

May the memories of those we lost forever be a blessing. 
Am Yisrael Chai.

This Year in Jerusalem? Maybe Next Year.

For many generations, Jews have concluded their Seders with the saying “לשנה הבאה בירושלים״ translated as “Next Year in Jerusalem.” Many Jews dreamed of returning to Jerusalem over the generations and sadly most were never able to go. I am currently enjoying a great privilege which is to be in a land where Jews are safe and can express their faith openly without concern. This year, I happen to be in Israel during the holiday of Passover and I really wanted to celebrate the holiday in Jerusalem. I didn’t want to just celebrate this for myself; I wanted to celebrate the holiday in Jerusalem for those before me who never made it to Jerusalem. Unfortunately, my dream went unfulfilled. Because of the coronavirus and the quarantine imposed upon us, I was unable to make it to Jerusalem. So close and yet I might as well be so far away. I will be honest, it hurt. But as with every challenge in life, lessons and ideas can come from it. My ancestors prior to my grandfather never made it to this land and were never able to celebrate Passover in Jerusalem. This year, I did not make it to Jerusalem for Passover either. But, I came close. 

Sometimes, we have to come to terms with what is impossible but we should also acknowledge how close we got. So, this year I don’t get to pray for those who didn’t make it. Perhaps next year - I will. 

Election Day in Israel

I love a good election! But 3 times within the span of a year might be a bit much. Nevertheless, it has been very interesting to talk to Israelis about their thoughts on this problem. The results of the previous two elections show that Israelis are quite divided on what they want for the future of their country. Essentially, you have a strong right, a strong center, and a weak left. It also seems that in Israel, the right and the left are on two very different issues.

For the right, they see the main threat to the State of Israel as Iran.

For the left, they see the main threat to the State of Israel as the on-going and seemingly never-ending conflict with the Palestinians.

The centrists in Israel tend to be more right-leaning towards security and left-leaning on human rights and social services. At least that is what they have been telling me. That is also what Benny Gantz, the #1 pick for Kachol Lavan (Blue and White party), has said many times. 

There are plenty of other concerns that Israeli voters have in mind as they go to the ballot boxes. Cost of living in Israel is increasing. There is an intense debate on whether or not very religious Jews can avoid going to the Army if they remain in a yeshiva to study Torah. And so much more that you likely would not hear much about outside of Israel. 

There is also much concern about the Israeli political system itself. Despite Netanyahu’s corruption charges, many Israelis are still keen on voting for his party, Likud. To an outsider, this may seem confusing and cause some frustration. But looking in from the inside, there are reasons why some Israelis still vote Likud and those reasons are not irrational.

Netanyahu has two major political elements that he can take credit for (or at least have that credit be accepted by voters). Under the Netanyahu Prime Ministership, Israel has a strong security apparatus and improved relations with foreign nations. Being able to own having a secure country is certainly a great chip to have, especially in the Middle East. He has spent a lot of time traveling to Europe, Africa, Asia, and the Gulf states where relations have improved in recent years. And having some countries relocate (and declare to relocate) their embassies to West Jerusalem is big plus to his political ambitions. 

As upsetting as it may seem, it makes sense that some Israelis will overlook his corruption charges and infidelities. One Israeli told me, “I don’t care what he does in his personal life, I only care that he keeps us safe.” 

I cannot emphasize how important the feeling of safety is for Israelis and for being in the Middle East. Whether or not his decisions will keep Israelis safe in the long run is an intense and divisive debate but only the future has the answer to that debate. 

But however you feel about the right or the center, it is important to understand that Israel has a multi-party system so to judge all Israelis because of whatever the election results will be is simply unfair. 

I also want to share a big difference between the Israeli election and the American election. In Israel, most businesses are closed and public transportation is free. Many Israelis enjoy the day off. They get to sleep in. Many will vote in the morning and then take a day trip or go on a hike. 

In the US, well vote if you can. Maybe get up early or go during your lunch break. 

Having the day off seems to help with turnout (as common sense would suggest) so even with two frustrating elections, Israelis are still showing up to the polls. 

I also think this election frustration shows how fragile democratic institutions can be. There is much to be frustrated about but whatever the results of any election, in the U.S. and Israel, let us hope that those governments serve the will of the people. I think about the issues in the U.S. and Israel a lot and the radical politics and gridlock are frustrating. But, I still have hope that moral and democratic values will prevail in the long run.

As I conclude this, I have no clue who will be the Prime Minister of Israel or the Democratic nominee in the United States, but what I do know is that so long as we protect democratic values, they will hold. And if you can, get out and vote!

Happy Election Day. 

Return to the Holy Land - the Promised Land

I am often told that I cannot sit still for too long. I must agree that it true. I cannot sit still. It does not matter what way I am going as long as I am moving in the process. That is why I travel and when an opportunity arose to spend an extended time in Israel, I could hardly pass it up. However, the unfortunate reality is that this is a very controversial place and to make an honest reflection is very difficult and even risky. The problem as I understand it is that there are many sides to the argument, not just two sides. It is not in my interest nor is it my desire to make anyone angry. I am a traveler and a young writer. My job is to explore new (and old) places, meet new people, eat great food, have honest dialogue, and write my thoughts and reflections. So far in this travel blog I have written about Poland, South Africa, and El Paso. None of my posts changed any facts on the ground. My writings did not end antisemitism in Poland, poverty in South Africa, or the crisis at the U.S.-Mexico border. However, they did something special. They revealed stories and information to people who had not been much exposed to these topics. My goal is to continue sharing stories and information and for the next 5 months, I will be writing about the Holy Land.

What comes to mind now is a small experience I had on the plane ride to El Paso. I was struck with motion sickness and went to airplane lavatory. A stewardess heard me vomit and when I got out of the lavatory, she made a comment that I am a "loud vomiter" (as if anyone can vomit quietly). She asked me why I was going to El Paso and I told her I was going to learn about the complexities of the U.S.-Mexico border. She asked me if I was going to approach the topic in an unbiased way. I told her I would try.

This memory comes to mind because I expect people will want me to try and keep my biases out. That is certainly a fair request but in a way, that would go against what I am trying to do here. Much has been written on the conflict and there are many great books out there to read from and learn about the conflict. My goal is to write my own thoughts and reflections about what I see and hear so inherently, my biases will be presented in my writings.

So then, if all you know about the Holy Land is what I write about, you will be missing many big pieces of this complicated puzzle. I believe I have a voice to add, but I certainly do not have the only voice that should be listened to. I want that you take what I write and include it the wider range of stories and discussions about the Holy Land. I will write about my experiences and judging based off of what is in my itinerary, it will make some people uncomfortable (probably to say the least of it) but I do not believe in hiding stories so I will share them the best I can in the best of hopes and intentions. I am leaving the comments section open and I encourage questions and thoughts. These can help me write and reflect more clearly. 

So you know where I am coming from, please allow me to provide some background. I am an American Jew. I am the first person in my family to be born in the U.S. Most of my family members live in Israel (and other countries because I have an exciting family with a complicated past). Since I have graduated from university, I have read plenty of books on Judaism, Israel, Palestine, and I plan to continue doing so. I am greatly invested in what happens in the Holy Land. Because of my background, I have a worldview that is shaped by 3,000+ years of peoplehood, religion, trauma, and stories. I consider myself a Zionist. I am a Zionist because I believe in my people’s deep connection to the Land of Israel. I almost a Zionist because I am aware of my people’s history - a history of wandering and displacement - but always facing towards Jerusalem praying to someday return home. I am a Zionist because I know my own familial history. If you want to know a little bit about that, I suggest you read my post on Auschwitz-Birkenau (a hyperlink is below the blogpost). I had family murdered there and it isn’t lost on me that I am so very fortunate to have the opportunity to even exist and this is not a fact I take lightly. I believe that for Jews to live in safety, there has to be a state for the Jews. Part of having safety then would be to have peace with the Palestinians. What that will look like I do not know but what is clear is that neither Israelis or Palestinians are erasable so I support a peace that acknowledges the dignity and rights of both people. As we see a rise in antisemitism across the world, the importance of a state for the Jews has become increasingly more important and I hope that one day, Jews and Palestinians can live in peace and I would be so honored if this blog even slightly contributes to that. 

"You shall neither take revenge from nor bear a grudge against the members of your people; you shall love your neighbor as yourself. I am the Lord. (Leviticus 19:18)."

I try to live up to this command in Leviticus.

In my attempt to live up to this, I will try to gain a deeper understanding of the Holy Land. In doing so, I will have the difficult task of stepping outside of myself and seeing the complexities in other people’s shoes. That is the hard part. But here is an easier task I will complete. I will sit down and break bread with any person who is willing to speak with me.

For those of you who will be following my journey, I ask that you have patience and understanding. I am not writing to convince you of any form of nationalism. I am writing in hopes of bringing some clarity. I will share my stories as well as the stories of others. Some stories might make you uncomfortable. Discomfort is a part of life and I ask that you stick around. To say this again, I will leave the comments section open and I strongly encourage that you ask questions, leave thoughts, prayers, and comments. I will seek to answer them. Questions help in clarifying the situation.

So please, take my hand and let us go on this journey together - in peace.

Noah Goldman

Personal Reflection of my Visit to Auschwitz-h

Reflection on El Paso

There is only one thing we can all agree on in regards to the immigration debate. Our immigration system is broken.
A question that pops up is what does an efficient  immigration system look like? It depends how you want out of it. I would say there is no such thing as a moral immigration system. The two extremes are closed off borders and open borders. Both are immoral because both would cause a lot of harm to many people. As our border becomes more and more closed off, we are seeing the harm that comes from it. As of today, four kids who migrated here have died in the custody of the U.S. Government. Not moral by any means. Open borders is immoral because it ignores that there are bad entities out there that would take advantage of such. Civilians would be hurt due to this.
Now I must say that both are extreme positions and it would be dishonest to say those are our only options. There are many different ways to make a good immigration system. I like to think the two approaches listed above are a small minority of thought. I hope so. We need to see immigration as the complex topic it is and we should not expect a perfect result or perfect people.
We also have to acknowledge who is coming and why. Today, people are coming to the U.S. from the Northern Triangle - Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador. They come for different reasons ranging from droughts to intense violence. Gang violence plagues the region and is responsible for the gruesome violence that has killed thousands of people. If I lived in such conditions I would leave. Many people come through El Paso. It serves as a flashpoint in the immigration debate. We saw many migrants coming through in search for safety.
But I find that to understand why many people are coming from Central America, we need to take a look in history. Back in the Cold War, the U.S. government was so terrified of communism that we overthrew democratically-elected heads of state and replaced them with dictators who were friendly to the U.S. In Guatemala, this sparked a genocide that killed 200,000 people and left 50,000 missing. We don't know where they are, we just know that they are no longer alive. In El Salvador, we trained death squads at the Schools of the Americas who then used their counter-insurgency training to massacre thousands of people. Look at the Massacre at El Mozote. There's a book that describes what occurred and what role the U.S. government had in it.
This is not to say the U.S. is a terrible place.
I love the United States but I believe that out of love for my country, we have to talk about the good, the bad, and the ugly. Our government, while it does not have sole responsibility over the outcome, played a role in throwing the Northern Triangle into chaos. And today when refugees from south of the border come asking for help, we put up a wall. The wall we are putting up is not a solution to the problem. As the region goes further into crisis, more and more people will flee up north. It is very dangerous to try and come up north but coyotes lie to many desperate people telling them that the U.S. will treat them well. If we can't counter that narrative south of the border, more people will try to come here and more will die along the way. I would encourage our embassies in the Northern Triangle to do more to discourage people from trying to come up North.
I got a little political up there and you might not like what I said. I have a comments section below here and I would love to hear your thoughts. Be nice.
In regards to what I saw and the conversations I have had, I have come to see the complexity of immigration with my own eyes. I encourage you to remember that the people coming here are human beings made in the image of God. *If you're an atheist, well, they're still human beings like you.*
How we are treating our friends south of the border is not how we treat friends. There is a lot of potential in Latin America but bad politics is holding it back. Our government should help improve safety and well-being in these countries. Remember, we had a part to play in destabilizing the region. This may be a difficult thing to grasp but to make amends, we should try to help. I have spoken to many Guatemalans and migrants. No one I talked to wanted to leave their homes. The country they left was the home of their ancestors. But who am I to tell someone to stay if they will get murdered? I want Guatemalans to stay in Guatemala and help make it a better place and because brain drain is a real problem. But I won't make someone stay if it will cost them their lives. If we can help make these countries better, less people will leave. We won't save the day with walls, fear, racism, or any of the like. It's a complex problem that requires a complex solution - maybe solutions.
I hope some day we can see the humanity in each other and work to make the world a better place.
May we hold the memories of the four kids who passed away in our custody be of blessed memory and may we solve our problems so that no more kids will pass away.

Day Five - ICE and Ethics

This was quite the religious day. We started the day meeting with the rabbi and concluded with Catholic mass.

We met with Rabbi Ben Zeidman of Temple Mt. Sinai. He gave us a tour of his beautiful synagogue and talked a little bit about the history of the congregation and Judaism's stance on immigration. One thing I got out of the discussion was that whatever stance we come up with on the immigration topic is up for much fair debate but what cannot be up for debate is how we treat the stranger. It is said many times in the Hebrew Bible. I get that we have separation of church & state but many people get their values from the Bible. 

We need to keep the stranger in our midst safe. We can debate their status afterwards. 

We then visited Father Rafael's church. It was a beautiful church and it was great getting to see inside what it looked like. He was such a nice guy and I am so thankful to have met him. Not many people are even half as nice as he is. 

After lunch we went to witness a mass at an ICE detention facility. What struck me first about the facility was that I did not see a single ICE agent in the facility. Some private corporation was contracted out to provide guard services. There may be some problems with that but who's to say? 

There were two masses conducted. One for the men and one for the women. The one for the men went fine. I got to talk to some of the people. They were nice upon impression.
The mass for men went on fine and I shook many hands on the way out. One can't easily generalize from up close.
Next came the women. Father Rafael asked how many of them were mothers. I don't have an exact percentage but I would say about 90% of the women raised their hands. They were not with their kids so families were obviously separated. I really can't imagine what it would be like to have your kids taken away from you by the government and then lost in the process. I get shivers just thinking about it.
Towards the end of mass, I noticed the woman behind me started crying. At first I thought it was because she was moved by the spirit but then she grabbed her head and said it hurt really badly. I recall the two women next to her had to hold her up. I stood up and flagged down the guards. It felt like they took forever but I must say looking back, that was probably just time moving super slow for me in my head in the heat of the moment. I will say that the medics took a while to get her and how they put her on the gurney was a little strange. It seemed like they just tossed her on. I then looked around and saw that many people were crying. I really could just tear up but they would not fall. Don't judge my sadness based on tears. I was really hoping she would be okay. The mass concluded and we then left the facility. That was the only quiet ride on this entire trip.
We later learned she had a severe anxiety attack. I do not know why but I can't help but believe that it was due to her being separated from her kid(s) and Mother's Day was just a few days away.
I hope she and everyone get reunified with their families.
How strange that his be what we experience on our last day in El Paso.
But that is what makes it real. We can debate policy all day long but we have to understand that these decisions affect human lives. How we can do the least harm is another debate.
I am thankful to have gone with the group that I went with. I must say when we concluded our trip and arrived at Charlotte-Douglas airport and people started parting ways, it hit me that this was my last Queens adventure. I teared up a bit.
If you get the chance, go to the border and learn for yourself. 

Day Four - Border Enforcement and Hike

We started this day out with a meeting with two representatives from the Border Patrol. It is certainly a fact that Border Patrol has saved lives but there is also a case to made that some of their staff have done some bad things. The feeling of the group was that we mostly were not a fan of the institution. In some ways, that is difficult because we went in having an opinion already. Nevertheless, I went in with an open mind but also understanding that these guys are required to represent the organization through a positive light. 

We met them in a neutral location. I know, it is weird but it's what we did. 

They talked about some of the good stuff they have done and the difficult things they had seen. 

There were some weird moments of the conversation that I did not like. I did not like that one of them said they were puppets. Or that one of them lied about the effectiveness of USAID. 

Some people were troubled by how someone might sacrifice their morals to do such work. That's a rather big question to ask. I will say, as a student we explore a lot of theories and expect people to do things rationally and somewhat perfect. 

That is not reality. 

I don't know what it is like to work in Border Patrol or what I would do if I worked for such an organization. I don't know what inspires people to work for Border Patrol. I hope it is to do good work for our country but I can't say that for everyone. I only talked to two agents. 

We must recall that institutions are made up of people - imperfect people. We are all imperfect. 

At what point our morals may bend under pressure, I do not know. 

Perhaps we should teach ethics in school. We should teach ethics in school. It's a great subject. 

I'll be honest, I would like to work in the government someday. I feel like America has treated me well for the most part and now it is my turn to give back and try to make this country better. Just a little bit. Perhaps this is what motivates people to work for the U.S. government. 

I think we need to work to hold these institutions accountable. What the agents said is that they respond to policies and they follow the rules set for them. The just "following order" argument is somewhat problematic but just following orders doesn't make you a Nazi. But you should never blindly follow orders. Policies need to be challenged by protests in the streets and votes in the ballot box. We simply cannot turn a blind eye as to what they do. Accountability and transparency are key. 

On a lighter note, we then went on a nice hike to Mt. Cristo Rey. Because there are 14 crosses along the way, my Christian friends stopped 14 times along the way. All respect to their faith - I was happy we could stop along the way so I did not appear as out of shape as I really am. It was a beautiful hike and it was my first time in New Mexico. It's a beautiful state. It was interesting observing people reflect on their faith whilst on this hike. I also thankfully had just enough water. 

We then had a pleasant conversation with Father Mike Gallagher who is quite a well-traveled man. We talked a little bit about South Africa because we both had been there. He talked about the refugee populations that he encountered and some facts about migration. Majority travel for economics and they can afford to. It makes the discussion of migration more complex because it is such a complex topic. It furthers a point I have made before - immigration is complicated and we should stop trying to simplify it. 

Day Three - Holocaust of the Past and Fear for the Future

"Recordar un nombre es rescatar una vida perdida en el olvido."
"To remember a name is to rescue a lost life from oblivion."

I am thankful to the fact that I am with a group willing to learn and explore difficult topics. The El Paso Holocaust Museum and Study Center was made by the Jewish community in El Paso to show the community why it is important to learn about the Holocaust. Back in January, I researched what Jewish institutions exist in El Paso and I came across the museum. I brought up the idea to the trip's advisers and spoke with the museum and the tour was organized. We arrived around 9:00a.m. and met our tour guide, Rick. He is such a knowledgeable man and he shared so much with us. I am certainly no expert on the Holocaust but I have studied it for a long time and I know a good bit about it. 
The El Paso Holocaust Museum is a marvelous institution and I must be honest, it was much better than I originally expected. There were a few significant parts of the exhibit that sparked interest from me. There was one part of the museum where there were artifacts from Majdanek extermination camp. The one artifact that specifically stuck out to me were the two rusty shower heads. 

How many people screamed and perished under those shower heads? 

Another part of the museum that stuck out to me was the propaganda. They certainly were offensive but they also reflect how easy it is for false information to spread and influence discourse. We are seeing this issue today. It reveals how important a free and true press is and how we have to think critically about the news we get. Beware of the lies that get repeated again and again.
I hope that my friends who traveled with me learned something special from this museum.
Our tour guide, Rick, did not hold back on the stories he shared. He went into great detail about the torture that Jewish prisoners went through. At the end of the tour, I asked him why he went into such great detail. He told me it is how he brings some justice to the victims by making them more than just a number. By doing this, people remember what we are capable of.

Afterwards, we learned a little bit about Catholic Social Teaching through the director of the HOPE Institute, Dylan Corbett. He talked about exploring a religious approach to dealing with the issue of what is happening on the border. I think it helps to gather all these different perspectives for the analysis of what is occurring on the border. What I believe is that we need to reform what we are doing. I think it does not reflect our values. If our values have changed, then we should carve a nice poem off of the Statue of Liberty. It was a nice chat with Dylan and it is interesting to learn from liberal Catholics. Sometimes it seems they are often sidelined in the conversation. We then met with Christina Coronado who was representing Juntas Vamos. She talked about health issues and community involvement in Juarez. A lot of negative things are happening in Juarez - that is a fact. The hopeful optimist in me had to ask, "What is the good news coming out of Juarez?" Thankfully there is some good news coming out of the city and perception seems to be that it is slowly improving.
We concluded with a conversation with Sigrid Gonzalez. She studied accounting but almost never did accounting. She ended up working in politics by accident and I am very envious of that. It was amazing hearing how her experiences were used to help with immigration policy under the Obama Administration. She did not give us too much insight as per what it was like to work under Obama but it was inspirational hearing how she got quite far up because people needed her skills. What a cool way to serve our country. I guess I just have to do the work and "show up."

Day Two- Volunteering in a Migrant Shelter

For our second full day in El Paso, we mostly volunteered at a shelter for migrants. Before that, we went to Cafe Mayapan to learn about some local issues in El Paso. We talked a bit about NAFTA and TPP. What’s difficult with these agreements is that, in aggregate, it has made us better off but if you are one of those who get left behind, you don’t care about the aggregate. It makes one think about what role the government should (or shouldn’t) take in regards to globalization. I won’t go to into this topic but it is certainly a big topic and we should think about the consequences of trade agreements on local communities
The big thing of the day was volunteering in the migrant shelter. I want to make clear that this shelter cooperates with Border Patrol and ICE so that people who have applied for asylum won’t be out on the streets at night. My first task was to clean the showers. Not a great task but it had to be done. With some good help, it took me about an hour. I was just happy to help.
I then helped hand out wash towels for migrants to shower. Next to me was a bunch of little kids playing with toys. They were having so much fun. They were playing soccer and with toys and they were running around a lot. We then had dinner which was beef and rice from Salvation Army. Was not bad. There were moments where people shared their stories with me. Many Guatemalans left because of a serious drought that is killing the ecosystem. Many others left because of gang violence. I must say, if I were in their shoes, I would apply for asylum as well. One woman said if she had stayed in Guatemala, her daughter would be kidnapped and sold by the gangs. I would also leave if I were put in such a situation.
I did not realize how quickly eight hours would go by. The hard work hardly felt like work. There was one moment towards the end where a tiny child kicked a beach ball towards me. He wanted to kick it around with me. I figured it was time for a break anyways. This little child was so funny. Every time I kicked the ball high into the air, he would raise his arms up and have the biggest smile on his face. That was a special moment for me because in all that was happening in the shelter and in all this child may have experienced, he still had the biggest smile. on his face. It was almost as if all the noise of the outside world had been shut out because of this one beach ball. But perhaps it was more than just the beach ball. Perhaps it is because he came to America and an American played a game with him. That in spite of all the political noise, we can see the humanity in each other and play a fun little game. For me, this could have been some form of a "God moment." I truly felt special with the work that I did this day.

Day One - Fence or Wall?

The first thing we went to go see in El Paso after a lovely breakfast is the fence. Or is it a wall? Does the distinction matter?
You can see from the picture how far it spreads. This picture was taken about a step into New Mexico. The fence to me, is very strange. Before today, I’ve only seen borders as lines on map. Today, I saw some of the people on the other side of the fence. Some parents, some kids, some dogs. I wonder what it is like to grow up on one side of the fence only being able to see the other side but do no more than reach your hand through. Are we really supposed to be afraid. Is fear what built the fence?

Borders are a reality and they serve an important purpose. As I am currently writing this, I am sitting on a rooftop staring into Ciudad Juarez. I will not be setting foot into Juarez (this time) but I can see it. Two cities that are split by a line in the sand with a fence put on top. To be honest, from where I currently sit, it is hard to tell where El Paso and Juarez split.
I’ve spoken to some people today who have grown up and lived many years in El Paso. I asked if El Paso was safe before the fence. I got a very quick “yes!” She credits El Paso’s safety to the top-notch enforcement agencies primarily the El Paso Police Department. Perhaps it isn’t fences or walls that make us safe - it’s what we do for ourselves that make us safe.
The fence in New Mexico.
Looking into Mexico.

After our visit to the Border, we went to visit the University of Texas at El Paso (UTEP). We walked around a little bit and then went to their Centennial Museum. There, they had an exhibit on the ICE detention facilities that were set up in 2018. It primarily focused on the centers that had children. There was a comparison in there made between the camps set up in the USA to lock up Mexican migrants in the early 1900's, Thereisenstadt which was a concentration camp in what was then Czechoslovakia (today the camp is in the Czech Republic), and the Japanese internment camps during the Second World War.
The pictures of the camps that were set up in 2018 looked like something from the past. Seeing the exhibit recreated the emotions I felt last year when I first learned we were separating families. That was a feeling of great shame. I have high expectations of the United States and that moment, my country let me down. But, I was encouraged by the level of outcry in which many people on the left and right spoke out against the Zero Tolerance Policy. At the time, I was in Cape Town and I felt powerless. Now, being in El Paso, I feel like I have a voice in the immigration debate and hopefully will never allow such an injustice to occur again. We are better than that.
I am left today challenging the concept of border protection. There is a need to protect and enforce our borders but I believe that going overboard can be problematic. While Mexico and Canada certainly have their issues (keep your snow up there Canada!) we are not at war with them. They are our neighbors. We should cooperate with them as such. Mexico needs to get ahold of their cartel problem and Canada, well you know what you need to do.
Perhaps we as neighbors, have an incentive to help Mexico overcome its corruption problem and defeat the cartels. Easier said than done, but I think this is something we should talk more about. Let's talk about what pushes people here and deal with the source of the problem.

El Paso - Flashpoint in the Debate

I have been fortunate enough to receive a college education that took me to amazing places and taught me complex and fascinating subjects. I studied U.S.-Latin American Relations, I visited Guatemala, I studied U.S. immigration policy, interned for an NGO in Cape Town assisting refugees, and more. Immigration is a part of my life. Both my parents are immigrants and ancestors on both sides of my family have been displaced, expelled, and some even killed. This was purely because of their religion. This is why I have family in Israel, South Africa, Brazil, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, etc. I am fortunate enough that I had never experienced such turmoil and to have grown up in the United States. I think this array of experiences and family history grants me a say in the debate. So, it’s now finally time for me to visit the U.S.-Mexico border.
In a way, I want to offend both Democrats and Republicans. I want to offend them because the immigration debate has grown to be very toxic. Immigration is a complicated topic being viewed through simplistic means.
If you’ve made it this far and haven’t wandered away from my blog post, I hope you will join me on this journey. In El Paso, I will be visiting different people and organizations that operate on the border. I hope that we both learn from this journey and that we seek to better our discussion on immigration policy. I cannot promise you I won’t get political. That simply is not possible. What I will do is present to you the information I’ve received and try my best to reflect what I have witnessed. There may be parts that Republicans would agree with and parts that Democrats will agree with. I honestly can’t tell you what this will lead to. You also have no obligation to like what I say and while I am open to constructive criticism, my experiences will be reflected here and it’s possible I won’t take your criticism. I don’t want you to fully agree with me. What I want is you take what I have seen and learned and use it to challenge your thoughts and biases you may have in relation to the border. Please leave comments and stay tuned to what I will post. I hope we both grow from this experience and I hope we may some day have an immigration system that works. For now, let’s go see the border.

Poverty & Privilege - A Personal Reflection

Throughout my travels, I have witnessed poverty and the misery that it can bring. Prior to 2017, I had never witnessed poverty with my own eyes. I have seen pictures but I don't think that is the same as seeing it and standing in it. I was in Guatemala City when I first saw poverty. The smell is something that haunts me to this day. The conditions were difficult and yet, we were on the "good" side of it.
Now, a little over a year later, I see poverty in a different country. I have so far been to two townships (Masiphumelele and Langa). But, what is different with my experience here is that even outside of the townships, poverty can reach your front door. Hardly a day goes by where I don't encounter someone begging for money or looking to sell enough trinkets to scrape by with a living. I have found it to be challenging to understand. I am not of that world. I was born in a middle-class American home with loving family. I have never known poverty. I have never known a life where my needs were not met.
This is where we have to be honest with ourselves. I don't know how to fully eradicate poverty. I wish I did and I think we all do as well. I used to think it was making jobs available but after some reading and thought, it is a little more than that. Over this trip, I read Trevor Noah's book, Born a Crime, and in that book he raises an interesting point about living in poverty. There is a mindset created in it and often, poverty will drag you back in even if you know you shouldn't. There are stories of people quitting their jobs due to social pressure from back home. There are stories of friends from the township ruining prospects for others so that they don't leave. This isn't universal of course, and how prevalent it is I do not know. But I think it raises an important point. It takes a lot to get out of poverty and for many, it's more than just getting a job. It's about being able to get out of poverty and stay out of poverty.
How should those who who are not living in such conditions view those that do? It's easy to dismiss if you don't live, but it's impossible to ignore if you do live in it. I think providing jobs alone isn't enough but also advertising what life is like when you have a career. I think proper educational facilities is key as well. You might note a previous blog post I did where I went and visited a school in Masiphumelele. The conditions of the school was difficult and I imagine there are schools like it in other townships in Cape Town that are either the same quality or worse. Quality education and job aspirations could be what it takes for everyone to have equality of opportunity. If you feed a man a fish, he will eat for a day but if you teach the man how to fish and to allow him the chance to seek further ways to fish better - him and his family will never go hungry.
May what we call a township today be a thriving city tomorrow.
~Noah Goldman

Mandela Day - Celebration in Langa

It goes without saying that I have had some very interesting experiences whilst traveling. I have gone to some places that have caused some raised eyebrows. "Noah, why would you go there?" "Noah, why would you eat that?" "Noah, what are you doing?" I have to be honest, I've been hearing questions like that at least once a week. One of the things you have to do when you travel is go for the local cuisine and look for those places that fill your heart with joy. 

Today is a special day (at least in my eyes) because it is Mandela Day. If Madiba were alive today, he would be 100 years old. Perhaps also appropriate that it's my dad's birthday too. Madiba is someone whom I had admired for as long as I can remember. He was a man who brought an oppressive system down to its knees. That alone is admirable but he did so much more. I think what I have learned from Madiba is that it takes great courage to let go of the pain brought upon you, to turn the other cheek, and be willing to work with those who hurt you to make something better. 

So, in honor of his life and of what happened to be good timing, me and some of my friends went to this very special restaurant: Mzansi. Mzansi is a buffet/homestyle restaurant. It is located in the township of Langa (this is where some eyebrows are raised) and has been in operation for quite some time now. This restaurant was made for travelers to come to and experience a different part of South Africa. Here you are served traditional Xhosa foods and are meant to feel at home. There are no waiters as you serve yourself but the experience is very homey. I will explain. 

You get your food and you sit with anyone. It is home-style so its not just a table for you and your group like a normal restaurant. You meet people from different parts of the world who happen to come to this place the same time you did. There is also a wonderful band playing to make the experience even more enjoyable. Then, after you eat, the owner and head cook shares with you her story. We, as travelers, know her as Mama. 

She shared her story of growing up in Langa during apartheid and how even before the restaurant she would serve food to people in the township. Back then, whites were not permitted to go to townships due to 'forced separation' laws. A couple years ago she opened her old home, renovated it, and made it into a restaurant. Thanks to spread of word and TripAdvisor, it has become very successful. She is a humble woman who loves to see the smiles on people's faces because of her delicious food. She said that thanks to this restaurant "I don't come to the world, the world comes to me." This was rather interesting to me. It really does show how small our world really is. She talked with us about the struggles she had to endure because of racism but holds no grudges. Cliche' it may be, below our different skin colors, the blood is the same. 

I think what has been hard for me here is the dialogue around race. "Whites do this." "Blacks do that." Coloureds always do such and such." The over-simplification and generalizations infuriate me because human beings are so much more complicated than skin color. I think people spend so much time thinking about race that they are missing out on the beauty of the world around them. This is what Madiba believed. Race does not define your character. You are no better or worse because of it. There may be systems that prefer certain skin colors but in the grand scheme, it ultimately means nothing. 

Look for the beauty in your culture and in your people. It is beautiful and there are amazing stories to share of it. Then, go to a place like Mzansi, and you will find people of another culture and you will see that they too are beautiful. This is what Madiba believed. That the plurality of society in which we all live together and contribute to each others well-being is what makes our world great. So, on this Mandela Day, let us move past this primitive view on race and let us move forward so that a better world is yet to come. 

"There is no passion to be found playing small - in settling for a life that is less than the one you are capable of living." 

~Noah Goldman