Day One in the Phoenix City

Finally, the first full day in Warsaw commences. I started the day at 7:00 a.m. and walked a little bit around the old town which is where our hostel is located. I of course, go for a delicious latte at Costa Coffee in which I will get plenty more coffee from in my time here.

Believe it or not, this is a medium sized latte. I'm scared to know what the large looks like. 

We started the program with a walking tour of Warsaw with a passionate and knowledgeable tour guide. Our program is with the Taube Center for the Renewal of Jewish Life in Warsaw, a fantastic group working to keep the memories and stories of Jewish Poland alive. Prior to September 1st, 1939, Warsaw had the second largest Jewish community in the world right behind New York City at over 300,000 people. The community suffered tremendously during the Second Workd War. I will get more into this as the trip goes on and you will learn of this through the sights I visit. Don’t worry, I’ll post pictures.
Our tour took us around the city to what is considered the Old Town, which isn’t actually that old because it was rebuilt in the 1950’s after the Second World War after the devastation that the city suffered. We also walked into what used to be the Warsaw Ghetto and the modern buildings that were built over its remains. For example, what used to be the Great Synagogue of Warsaw was destroyed by the nazis and today a MetLife building is over where it used to stand. I don’t know the reasoning so it would be unfair for me to judge at this time.
It’s a little weird to walk in a place that was devastated and destroyed. It seems that the post-communist era is one of the best times for Poland in its history. Where I stand is where unimaginable suffering occurred and chances are, I’ve walked over unmarked and unknown graves without ever possibly knowing.
We then, after lunch went to the Emmanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute. There, we learned about the efforts of many Jews in the Warsaw Ghetto to document their experiences so that their suffering would not be lost in time. I have to say, the hardest part was reading personal narratives of the ghetto residents. One person said they were envious of the dead because they didn’t have to suffer from the nazis any further.

One of the milk cartons used to hide the Ringelblum Archives to keep the stories of the ghetto alive throughout history. 

After our visit, we went to the Okipawa Jewish Cemetery. It was one of the few Jewish cemeteries to survive the nazi destruction during the Second World War. It is a large cemetery with tombstones dating back to the early 1800’s.

Okipawa Jewish Cemetery 

Mass grave site at the cemetery. Jews who were executed by the nazis were put in this mass grave site at the cemetery out of convenience. There are two known mass graves in the cemetery but there are several throughout the country. 

Some graves were knocked over whether it be because of vandalism or nature. Repairing the damages are incredibly difficult. 

Sunlight on the old graves at the Okipawa Cemetery. Today, they do about 25 funerals a year.

Janusz Korczak - Read his story; it is incredible. There is a good chance you'll cry. 

All in all it was a very impactful first day in Warsaw. What disturbs me is that in the case of cemeteries in Warsaw, there is no peace after death. Whether it be man or nature, these elements disturb the dead and rob them of the respect, peace, and silence they deserve. I hope at the very least, their souls are at peace and hopefully this journey of preserving memory will be successful in starting something important. That we can treat the living with respect and that they still receive that respect even after they are gone. 

~Noah Goldman