Poverty & Privilege - A Personal Reflection

Throughout my travels, I have witnessed poverty and the misery that it can bring. Prior to 2017, I had never witnessed poverty with my own eyes. I have seen pictures but I don't think that is the same as seeing it and standing in it. I was in Guatemala City when I first saw poverty. The smell is something that haunts me to this day. The conditions were difficult and yet, we were on the "good" side of it.
Now, a little over a year later, I see poverty in a different country. I have so far been to two townships (Masiphumelele and Langa). But, what is different with my experience here is that even outside of the townships, poverty can reach your front door. Hardly a day goes by where I don't encounter someone begging for money or looking to sell enough trinkets to scrape by with a living. I have found it to be challenging to understand. I am not of that world. I was born in a middle-class American home with loving family. I have never known poverty. I have never known a life where my needs were not met.
This is where we have to be honest with ourselves. I don't know how to fully eradicate poverty. I wish I did and I think we all do as well. I used to think it was making jobs available but after some reading and thought, it is a little more than that. Over this trip, I read Trevor Noah's book, Born a Crime, and in that book he raises an interesting point about living in poverty. There is a mindset created in it and often, poverty will drag you back in even if you know you shouldn't. There are stories of people quitting their jobs due to social pressure from back home. There are stories of friends from the township ruining prospects for others so that they don't leave. This isn't universal of course, and how prevalent it is I do not know. But I think it raises an important point. It takes a lot to get out of poverty and for many, it's more than just getting a job. It's about being able to get out of poverty and stay out of poverty.
How should those who who are not living in such conditions view those that do? It's easy to dismiss if you don't live, but it's impossible to ignore if you do live in it. I think providing jobs alone isn't enough but also advertising what life is like when you have a career. I think proper educational facilities is key as well. You might note a previous blog post I did where I went and visited a school in Masiphumelele. The conditions of the school was difficult and I imagine there are schools like it in other townships in Cape Town that are either the same quality or worse. Quality education and job aspirations could be what it takes for everyone to have equality of opportunity. If you feed a man a fish, he will eat for a day but if you teach the man how to fish and to allow him the chance to seek further ways to fish better - him and his family will never go hungry.
May what we call a township today be a thriving city tomorrow.
~Noah Goldman

Mandela Day - Celebration in Langa

It goes without saying that I have had some very interesting experiences whilst traveling. I have gone to some places that have caused some raised eyebrows. "Noah, why would you go there?" "Noah, why would you eat that?" "Noah, what are you doing?" I have to be honest, I've been hearing questions like that at least once a week. One of the things you have to do when you travel is go for the local cuisine and look for those places that fill your heart with joy. 

Today is a special day (at least in my eyes) because it is Mandela Day. If Madiba were alive today, he would be 100 years old. Perhaps also appropriate that it's my dad's birthday too. Madiba is someone whom I had admired for as long as I can remember. He was a man who brought an oppressive system down to its knees. That alone is admirable but he did so much more. I think what I have learned from Madiba is that it takes great courage to let go of the pain brought upon you, to turn the other cheek, and be willing to work with those who hurt you to make something better. 

So, in honor of his life and of what happened to be good timing, me and some of my friends went to this very special restaurant: Mzansi. Mzansi is a buffet/homestyle restaurant. It is located in the township of Langa (this is where some eyebrows are raised) and has been in operation for quite some time now. This restaurant was made for travelers to come to and experience a different part of South Africa. Here you are served traditional Xhosa foods and are meant to feel at home. There are no waiters as you serve yourself but the experience is very homey. I will explain. 

You get your food and you sit with anyone. It is home-style so its not just a table for you and your group like a normal restaurant. You meet people from different parts of the world who happen to come to this place the same time you did. There is also a wonderful band playing to make the experience even more enjoyable. Then, after you eat, the owner and head cook shares with you her story. We, as travelers, know her as Mama. 

She shared her story of growing up in Langa during apartheid and how even before the restaurant she would serve food to people in the township. Back then, whites were not permitted to go to townships due to 'forced separation' laws. A couple years ago she opened her old home, renovated it, and made it into a restaurant. Thanks to spread of word and TripAdvisor, it has become very successful. She is a humble woman who loves to see the smiles on people's faces because of her delicious food. She said that thanks to this restaurant "I don't come to the world, the world comes to me." This was rather interesting to me. It really does show how small our world really is. She talked with us about the struggles she had to endure because of racism but holds no grudges. Cliche' it may be, below our different skin colors, the blood is the same. 

I think what has been hard for me here is the dialogue around race. "Whites do this." "Blacks do that." Coloureds always do such and such." The over-simplification and generalizations infuriate me because human beings are so much more complicated than skin color. I think people spend so much time thinking about race that they are missing out on the beauty of the world around them. This is what Madiba believed. Race does not define your character. You are no better or worse because of it. There may be systems that prefer certain skin colors but in the grand scheme, it ultimately means nothing. 

Look for the beauty in your culture and in your people. It is beautiful and there are amazing stories to share of it. Then, go to a place like Mzansi, and you will find people of another culture and you will see that they too are beautiful. This is what Madiba believed. That the plurality of society in which we all live together and contribute to each others well-being is what makes our world great. So, on this Mandela Day, let us move past this primitive view on race and let us move forward so that a better world is yet to come. 

"There is no passion to be found playing small - in settling for a life that is less than the one you are capable of living." 

~Noah Goldman

Robben Island

I think Robben Island is about four miles from mainland Cape Town. The way you go there today is by boat through the Robben Island Museum. Distance-wise, it is not that far from the mainland but for some reason, it felt like the longest boat ride of my life. There is something about this place of terror and oppression that makes it different from the others. Robben Island was a place in which the apartheid government could hold those it deemed "enemies of the state" away from South African society with four miles of water to keep them separated. A place where many black people suffered tremendously. Where some, would never return from.

When you go to Robben Island through the museum, you get a very special perspective added to your trip. Your tour guide will be someone who was a former prisoner when it was operational. This is a very unique and powerful perspective. Our guide was a man who went to a protest in his high school years and because of that, he was arrested and sent to Robben Island for five years.

This is the entrance to Robben Island prison. As you walk through the prison halls, you see the harsh conditions that prisoners were put through. When you hear and read testimony, you learn how experiences on the island were made to be even worse than designed. It is a place where for many, the punishment was far bigger than the crime. Going through the island, one can understand why many hold resentment towards South Africa. It is a suffering beyond what a person can imagine unless they have experienced it. 

What was interesting was that our tour guide knew Nelson Mandela. He casually pointed out where his 'buddy' Nelson sat in prison. I wonder what it's like to know one of the 20th century's greatest statesmen at what may be the lowest point in their lives. There is something about the cold and the gray walls of the prison. How one could spend more than a day there, I will never know. Even with the desire to escape, you simply could not. On the off-chance you break out of prison, you then would have to swim to mainland Cape Town where if you managed to make it there, there may be some people expecting you. But, the coasts are difficult, the waves are strong, and the water is always cold. When asked if anyone escaped during the apartheid era, the guide told me "the thought never escaped our minds." In a disturbing way, Robben Island was the perfect prison. 

Robben Island leaves a disturbing reminder as to what happens when we let radicals take over our politics and corrupt our systems so that opposition to them is a damning offense. This isn't a lesson just for South Africa; it's a lesson for the world.

It makes a great physical reminder because from Cape Town, if you look out to sea, there is a good chance you will see the island. As I leave the island, I reflect on the pain that took place on the grounds that I walked on. Who was locked up there? What did they do to be put there? Who never got to leave the island? Can we stop something like this from ever happening again? 

My Visit to Pinelands - Cape Town Jewish Cemetery

I have come a long way from home. From the comfort of Charlotte to the old cemeteries of Poland to the beautiful sights of Prague and Zurich to now being in South Africa. This journey to 4 different countries has involved me tracing some form of where I come from and what my history is. It is weird to think had history taken a different turn, I would likely be Polish or Lithuanian today instead of being an American. Had history taken a different route, no one in my family would have ever moved to South Africa. I would be someone totally different.
But that's not the reality I live in. The Holocaust happened and those who survived did not stay in Poland or Lithuania, they came to South Africa. There are a few different stories with how my Polish and Lithuanian ancestors came to South Africa but the underlying theme was to flee a destructive persecution. Since  the 1920's, people from my family have lived in South Africa and have contributed to the country since. They were established businesses, contributed to a strong Jewish community, and life was good but not without their challenges. Over time, people left South Africa for varying reasons and to varying places but many stay behind and when the opportunity arises, we visit South Africa.
One of the ways in which you establish a Jewish community is that you have a Jewish cemetery. This is hallmark for Jewish communities all across the world. On this day, I went to go see the Cape Town Jewish Cemetery at Pinelands.
It is a beautiful cemetery that is well-taken care of and a place where many who added to Cape Town are laid to rest. Some of the people buried there are close family. This blog post will acknowledge them and what they mean to me. One of the women buried there is my grandmother. I sadly never had the privilege to meet her in person. She passed away on the 21st of August, 1974. By blood, she is my grandmother and even thought I never got to see her in person, I feel a strong love for her through the stories that keep her alive. On this day and after all these years, I finally got to meet her.

Afterwards, my grandfather remarried and more people were added to the family. It makes for an interesting dynamic. I have uncles, aunts, and cousins with whom I share no genetic bond to. We are related through the marriage of one couple. For me at least, it has so far worked out just fine. I love all my relatives, whether related by blood or not, and we get along pretty well. One of my aunts, Ruth Golembo Mesarcik, was another woman I did not have the privilege of meeting in person. Unfortunately, she passed away on the 14th of July, 2016. I had only heard wonderful things about her. She was an amazing wife and mother and successful in her field of work. I wish I could have at least spoken to her. 

An amazing person I never got to meet was the man we called 'Uncle Phil'. He was my dad's uncle. His father's brother to be exact. He passed away on the 28th of June, 2016. I have heard wonderful stories through my dad and my grandfather of the impact he had on their lives. How he was able to touch the lives of so many people and live to a ripe old age. His life will live on through those stories that I wish to share and pass on as well. 

I would lastly like to acknowledge one more person and this is difficult. My dad's cousin had a son named Justin Goldman. He was 'Uncle Phil's' grandson. He passed away on the 16th of May, 2016. He was too young for his time and taken from us way too soon. Despite the obstacles he faced in life, he sought and worked for success. His loss leaves an unfilled space that can never be refilled. 

I know that for any of my family members who have read this, it may not have been easy and I apologize if I brought any tears back to you. I feel that it is important to share these stories and these people with the world. I have to be honest, these losses have shown me how fragile life really is. I don't hold many regrets but I do have one. That I never called. Three of my relatives that I shared about passed away in 2016. It was a rough year for the family. It hit me that I will never hear their voices for a first time because we never talked. Even though we are a distance apart, I could have called. I should have but I didn't. The thought did not occur to me until it was far too late. I am sorry for not calling you when I should have made the effort to do so. 

I know that I have shared a lot of personal thoughts, feelings, and stories on this blog. I find it easier to type it than to speak it. Some may think I may be getting to personal but I see it as being authentic, real, and human. Through this, there will forever be a record of these people who have left an impact on this world. Also, I hope that those who read these posts may learn something and perhaps see something differently in their own lives. That is why I share these personal thoughts. May we all hold our loved one's close whether they are on this earth or not and may we love them forever. 

May the memories of those we have lost forever be a blessing. 

BDE'

~Noah Goldman

Golden Birthday in the Western Cape

It sometimes so happens that the days and times align really well in order to make a great day. My birthday is June 22. It's usually a pretty cool day and as far as I remember, I only have positive memories of my past birthdays. This year was my "golden birthday" which is essentially when I turn 22 on the 22nd. It's a fun, cute idea. Because there is so much I have to do here in Cape Town, I had to go and celebrate a little bit before my actual birthday. My new friends took me to a pasta restaurant where I had a burger (such an American thing to do) and then went to the bar, Forex. Now, there is no way your friends can embarrass you more than to get a bar packed full of people to join them in singing "Happy Birthday." If there was ever an appropriate time to be drunk, it would be after that nightmare. Nevertheless, I survived.
For my actual birthday, the internship placement organization took us to Cape Point, the most South Western tip of the African continent. It's about an hour drive from Observatory and a must-do when in Cape Town. Once you get near Cape Point, you get to see some fun animals like ostriches and baboons. I don't recommend you try playing with either of them. I didn't, but apparently the obvious statements have to be made because tourists sometimes can only learn from experience. For things like safety, you only have to tell me and I'll take your word for it. So, I didn't get to play with the poor baboons.
Once you get to Cape Point, there are two short hikes you can do. One is to the lighthouse and the other is to the Cape of Good Hope which is as Southwest as Africa gets. I'll share some words about what I saw, but I'll let the pictures here do some talking first.

 These are just some of the sights I got to see whilst at Cape Point. After walking up to the lighthouse for the views, we then walked to Cape Point in which the trail took us to the top of a hill on a cliff. I never understood why people risk their lives for a nice picture right on the edge of a cliff. Are likes worth that much. The wind almost knocked someone off the edge of the cliff. What's a step or two forward so you're less likely to fall off? I got as close as I was comfortable. I got some nice pictures and that was that. The path down the hill was rather unsafe. You essentially had to hop from rock to rock and when you weren't hopping on rocks, you had to walk on rickety wood hoping it wouldn't break. It took about 15 minutes to get down and back to the van. Bye baboons. Until next time my friends.
To complete my birthday was another big family dinner at the grandparent's flat. I got some great gifts such as books, wine, chocolate, and clothes. Even when you get older, gifts from the heart are always nice. Traveling and family make for a great birthday, even for a golden birthday. I had a really good day and I am so far having a wonderful time in Cape Town. Off to the next adventure.
~Noah Goldman

Life in the Water Crisis

One of the stresses about Cape Town I had was coming here during a water crisis. Day Zero, the policy in which water usage will be extremely limited, was scary to think about. I must say though, I have lucked out a bit thanks to two things. Capetonians have become very concerned about the water crisis and have limited their water consumption as best they can. The second thing is, it has been raining a good bit. The dam levels are rising and Day Zero has been pushed back and seems to be getting pushed further and further back. This is good news but Cape Town is not out of the woods yet.
When I first got here, they told me "if it's yellow let it mellow and if it's brown flush it down." I'll leave it at that with regards to toilet usage. I have been pretty good at taking 2 minute showers but just know that when I'm back home, I'm gonna make up for lost time and take a 5 hour shower. Just kidding! I often don't drink water but other liquids to stay hydrated and typically only bring water on hikes or long trips. I have done my best to limit my water usage and I'm curious to see how it will be when I'm back home.
Living in Cape Town has made me greater appreciate the value of water and we waste so much of it back in Charlotte. We need water to live and yet we overuse it by taking insanely long showers, dumping out water instead of saving it for another day, and so much other ways we waste it. I hope that when I am back in Charlotte, I will be more considerate in my water usage. Back home I will always flush and my showers will take longer than 2 minutes but it won't be excessive. Appreciate the value of water as water is what gives us life and you shouldn't have to come to Cape Town to appreciate its importance.

Education for Immigrants in the Western Cape

I started my internship a couple of days ago. To catch you up, the organization is called the Refugee Legal & Advocacy Centre which primarily helps refugees get asylum in South Africa. One of the things my supervisor wanted me to see was some of the immigrant schools that exist in Cape Town. The school system I went to visit is called the Bright Student Learning Centre which has an incredible goal and ethic. The school is a non-profit that helps immigrant and refugee children in South Africa get a good education and makes sure that the students learn English. The students come from mainly Zimbabwe but also from Malawi, Mozambique, Ethiopia, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

I had the opportunity to interview the principal, some teachers, and some students from the three different campuses. The three campuses are in Wynberg, Bellville, and Masiphumelele which is a township. Prior to going, I did some research on South African and Zimbabwean politics to better understand the issues that people in the two countries face. Both countries have recently had big political shake-ups with Jacob Zuma forced to resign in shame and replaced by Cyril Ramaphosa. Robert Mugabe was replaced by Emmerson Mnangagwa through the means of a military coup. The issues that force Zimbabweans out of Zimbabwe are poverty, unemployment, and political instability to name a few. South Africa currently has a growing poverty rate and a 26% unemployment rate. This is just the numbers recorded based on those in South Africa who have papers. If you don't have papers, you don't get included in the records.
I share some of the details to paint a picture as to what the migrant and refugee children I met have to deal with. I interviewed students who go far out of their way so that they can go to school. Some go by themselves on the train or the crazy taxis to get to school. For many, on a good day it is a 45 minute commute. Many of these kids were planning on going to public school but because of spacing issues, they have been deferred and some had to wait two years in order to go to public school. I met nine year olds who were forced to wait and were in the 1st Grade being held very far behind. That's why immigrant and refugee parents will send their kids to schools like the Bright Student Learning Centre, even if they can barely or downright not afford to send their kids there. It's because they know that education is a powerful tool that can take you far in life so that's why people risk everything to get it.

This is the preschool in Masiphumelele. Behind each door is a class of about 30 kindergartners. 

This school works in making sure students are fluent in English and get a high-quality education. There is a big hurdle for the school's success: money. The school started in 2012 in a small house and today has three campuses with over 500 students in total. They get no support from the South African government nor from Zimbabweans back in Zimbabwe. They rely on fees and donations and there are a good bit of people not paying their fees for whatever their reason may be. Money limits the resources needed to help these kids get an even better education. The kids I met are disciplined and more eager to learn than many Americans I know back home. I think sometimes we take education for granted since it's a requirement back home whereas here, the cracks are very big and easy to fall through. These kids value education because they know it can make a better life for them and their families. They want to be lawyers, doctors, tv stars, etc. They have these goals and ambitions at a young age. If you feel it in your heart, check out their website to learn more about how they help many young students in Cape Town.
~Noah Goldman
http://brightstudentlearningcentre.co.za/ 

My Thoughts on Anthony Bourdain While in Cape Town

This adventure had been planned for more than a year in advance and one of the things I wanted to best prepare was my mindset. Some way or another, I ended up watching Anthony Bourdain's show Parts Unknown. I spent many hours watching it looking forward to the views, the food, and the conversations. I wanted to learn how to travel "properly" Bourdain was certainly someone who spoke his mind, for better or worse, and did not care what you thought about it. He said some things I loved and said some things I didn't like but yet he still inspired me. How?

Bourdain showed me how a meal is about more than just the food. A meal is about the powerful connections between human beings that form in a dialogue on our lives over that meal. Bourdain would ask tough questions about life and the politics of the countries he visited over local dishes. Quite often, he praised food made in local kitchens over food found in fancy restaurants. We can learn the humility in that. That when we travel, we should make friends over meals and if we should be blessed, it will be a home-cooked meal. 

I have taken these lessons from Bourdain to my adventure here. So far, I have been in a few different restaurants ranging from nice kosher restaurants to behind the corner shops. I had delicious lamb curry and rice from a kosher restaurant called Avrons Place. I very much recommend. I had a nice chat about life in Cape Town with some relatives. Over the weekend, we had a big family Shabbat meal (16 people in attendance) and we talked about everything ranging from other travels to issues of the day in South Africa. I'll be having more meals and some beers with relatives while I am in Cape Town. Here in Observatory, I went into the little market with a new friend who knows the place and had chicken, pap (a maize porridge), and vegetables. I got to talk over this dish about local African foods and what many people eat. I finished the pap which apparently surprised many in this tiny eating establishment. They weren't used to Americans finishing pap, or their food in general. Sometimes finishing your plate can say more about you than what you say or wear. I have been welcomed to return.

Now, some of what Bourdain ate whilst abroad I may try to avoid and would more than likely play the kosher card. But nevertheless, this is the impact Bourdain had on me. He showed that we can break down barriers over food. That even though I have white skin, I am welcomed to go back to a place that predominantly caters to black Africans could say a lot. Let us learn from Bourdain and take food more seriously than we do. In the U.S., we waste so much food and to put it bluntly, we eat a lot of crap. Let's take more pride in the dishes we serve and the food we put in our bellies as well as the connections that we make over these meals. This is what he would have wanted and this is something we can all do. 

Rest in Peace Anthony Bourdain (1956-2018)

At the very least, you inspired me to see the good in everyone. 

~Noah Goldman

Cape Town - The Long Haul

Seriously, this trip is long overdue. How is it that I have so much family in Cape Town but have never visited it before? I blame the cost. I am both excited and nervous to be arriving in Cape Town. I think the big thing I am nervous about is being there for a little over two months. I have never been in a different country for that long. I will essentially be living in a foreign country for two months. That's weird and new, but also exciting. I have heard a lot about Cape Town since I was a small child. I've heard of the good and the bad. I finally get to see that.
Part of the reason I get to be here is through Queens' JBIP program that has granted me the privilege to be able to do an international internship. My internship will be with an organization called the Refugee Legal & Advocacy Centre. This organization provides free legal support for refugees seeking asylum in South Africa. Refugees in South Africa mainly come from Ethiopia, Somalia, he DRC, Nigeria, Sudan, more recently Zimbabwe, and from other African countries as well. I will be learning about refugee laws when it comes to both South African law and the United Nations. I will not just be exploring policy but also see how that policy impacts refugees on the ground. I will be exploring the role that South African institutions play in how they help refugees. I am very excited to learn about these things and to see where this internship will take me.
This really ends up being a perfect blessing for me. Through this program, I get to learn a lot about the politics of another country, I get to visit family here, and I have my own place so as not to bug anyone. I hope to learn a lot about the culture and food there and to see where that will take me. This is an amazing opportunity and I hope to take full advantage of it.
Stay tuned as the adventure carries on.
~Noah Goldman

Zurich - The Little Big City

Whenever I go to Europe (and its not very often), I have to make a stop in either Switzerland and/or Liechtenstein. The reason being is that I have close family in both countries and I have to visit. Expensive they may be, their beauty is something that pictures cannot bring to justice but only seeing it with your eyes can do so. My first impression of Zurich was that it is a cute, peaceful city. I don't think that perception has changed much but for good reason. I am thankful and blessed to have family that open their homes and their hearts for me and I really cannot thank them enough. They have made it possible to see the beauty of their worlds. I am forever grateful and hope to have more adventures with them in the future.
For this little trip, I of course made a stop in the little town of Hutlingen which is where some family members live. We had a nice barbecue and got to catch up as well as make some future plans. I also got to see a lot of the Swiss countryside which is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Sadly, I was not able to make it to Liechtenstein this time around. Liechtenstein is where some of my family still lives and it is also very beautiful and I have to make my way around there next time I am in Europe. But, Switzerland will do for now.
I am blessed to have family who open their homes for me and let me see their beautiful country. I will of course return and hopefully can spend more time here in this beautiful part of the world. Have I said beautiful enough?
Next stop - Cape Town, South Africa
~Noah Goldman

Prague - Heart of the Europe

I must be completely honest here, I decided to go to Prague on a whim. I came with two other friends and we decided to pick a city to go to right after our Poland excursion. I, for whatever reason, said Prague and we just kind of went with it. Looking back, I am so happy that we decided to go to Prague. It is such a beautiful city with so much to see and even more to do. One of the perks of seeing Prague is that for the most part it was not destroyed during the Second World War. We spent a lot of time just walking around looking at the sites and eating delicious food. Some of the excursions that we went on were paddle-boating the Vltava River, walking the Charles Bridge, going through Old Town and the Jewish Quarter, and so much more. It’s also fun to do these things with friends instead of by yourself.

This was our first time being in a foreign country with no itinerary and no guidance. It was fun in regards to the fact that we could do whatever we wanted (so long as it was within the budget). We found this fantastic waffle breakfast place where they customized these big waffles for you to enjoy. What is great with Prague is its affordability when it comes to hostels, food, and drink. What more do you need?

I think traveling without supervision is a fantastic growing opportunity. I had to pay for myself and make sure all the arrangements were in order with no one looking over it. I found Prague to be an incredible city that should be on every traveler's list. It is a city full of beauty, history, and culture. And if you can, take a day to go outside the city and explore what else the Czech Republic has to offer. There is plenty.
~Noah Goldman

Final Reflection on Poland

Poland has a fascinating history of which alone is worth studying. For centuries, Poland was a safe haven for the oppressed in which many could go about their lives and practice their faith in peace. The extremist politics of the 20th century brought a lot of that to an end through violent and bloody means. Through all that’s happened, there are many ways to look at Poland. Some see Poland as a giant cemetery where graveyards are everywhere and mass graves are still being uncovered. Others see this bad history but are optimistic about Poland’s future. Neither is necessarily wrong. 

It goes without saying that Poland played a role in the oppression of Jews during the Second World War as well as before and after. Some Poles collaborated with the Nazis and outed their neighbors. Some actively killed their Jewish neighbors. But, we cannot forget about the Poles who risked everything to protect their Jewish neighbors. The risk of helping Jews in Poland was death to all involved and their families. Many were successful in hiding Jews and some were not. These righteous gentiles are cherished today for the heroism that they showed in the face of evil. But lastly, there were Poles who were indifferent. They did not care whether Jews were there or not and did not care that they were taken away. It is unfair to tell the story of Polish Jewish history without including all of these three groups. 

What scares me today is that it seems the world is ready to forget the Holocaust. Polls have come out revealing that many American millennials know little to nothing about the Holocaust. I believe it was Elie Wiesel who said something along the lines of “to forget the dead would be akin to killing them again.” The pathetic Polish Holocaust denial bill is an effort to distort history and embolden the extremists. Thankfully there is pushback through the hard work of educators and activists. The Holocaust will and must never be forgotten and those who try to deny it will never be successful. 

I am grateful that there are amazing people in The U.S., Poland, Israel, and other countries that are working to preserve the memory of those we lost in the Holocaust and work tirelessly to prevent genocide from reoccurring. Many are unmotivated as we say “Never Again” but it happens again and again. I can’t blame them for thinking that because they’re right. It continues. But we have to keep trying to stop genocide as it wreaks it’s destructive forces. I saw the remnants of the Holocaust on Polish land. I live with the scars of the Holocaust on the Nation of Israel. But that motivates me to never let those scars reopen nor to let any force rise to hurt us as we’ve been so hurt before. As I reflect on my walks through Warsaw, Krakow, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Brzesko, Pinczow, and Chmielnik and reflecting on the destruction that took place there, I fight for “Never Again.” 

Please stay with me on this fight. Travel when you can. Expand your mind. Educate. And maybe some day “Never Again” will mean Never Again! 

~Noah Goldman

Rural Poland and the Lost Jewish Communities

The last day in Poland has finally come. I think it’s always important to finish strong. As I stated earlier, it can be argued that rural Poland is the real Poland. It’s where most Poles live and there’s plenty of history and sights to see. But first, there was some work to complete in the Brzesko Jewish Cemetery. I had more bushes and weeds to chop away. Over the past few days, we did so much work. We cleared up a large portion of the cemetery, uncovered plenty of tombstones, and hopefully played a role in getting the town interested in preserving the cemetery and in doing so aiding in the preservation of the town’s Jewish memory. It might not have been much but you have to start somewhere.
We finally left Brzesko to head back to Warsaw. But, we decided to make some stops along the way. We decided to stop at two towns that used to be shtetls. For those who don’t know, shtetls are towns that used to have a large majority of the population be Jewish. The two towns we visited were Pinczow and Chmielnik. These two towns had their old synagogues turned into museums - at least the ones that survived the war. Prior to 1939, Chmielnik had a population of about ten thousand people, 8,000 of whom were Jewish. Today, the town has 4,000 people. None of whom are Jewish. Pinczow has a very similar story. Most fled, were shot, deported, or taken to Treblinka. After the war, few came back but were encouraged to leave. Those who survived, more than likely left to Israel. What was inspiring though was how many of the townspeople today are working to preserve the memory of the town’s Jewish past even though they know they will not come back. They’re doing the most they can, preserving the memory of those who would otherwise be there today. While of course, many Jews lived in Warsaw and Krakow, several still lived in shtetl communities out in the rural heart of Poland. Today, not many even live in all of Poland.
We made one more stop before Warsaw. There’s a city in Poland called Kielce which was the site for the beginning of the major catalyst of Jews emigrating from Poland. When you can, look up the Kielce Pogrom. What’s disturbing was that it was Poles who killed Jews based on a blood libel in 1946. In Kielce, there are monuments to the Jewish community and the massacre that hurt the community. The monuments are worth seeing if you ever get the chance and are passing through Kielce. I’m not sure what else there is to do in Kielce though.
After Kielce we finally make it to Warsaw to finish off a long trip. We had a farewell dinner with the Taube Foundation. When you are in Poland, you have to ask them for a tour. They are fantastic and you will learn so much about Polish Jewish history. After dinner, it was time to go to bed and get ready for the next leg of the journey. Next stop: Prague.
~Noah Goldman

Brzesko - Returning Life to a Forgotten Cemetery

The last leg of our journey takes place in the small town of Brzesko. One might wonder what brings some Americans to Brzesko of all places in Poland. Well, interestingly enough, there is an old Jewish cemetery that has existed in the town since 1824 but was for the most part abandoned by the end of the war. This was because most of the Jewish residents of the town either fled the nazis or were killed by them. One Holocaust survivor remains in the town to this day. The cemetery was largely forgotten and untreated. Tombstones fell over and some were stolen. Trees and plants consumed the cemetery being a primary perpetrator of knocking over and even burying some tombstones.
Thankfully in recent years, some people began to care about the cemetery. Some people have devoted countless hours into not just restoring the cemetery but also getting the town to care about the well-being of it. It’s a difficult task all in one. We came to spend a few days moving branches and chopping up bushes.
Normally, I’m not a big fan of doing physical labor but this was different. We were doing a good deed. I had all the energy and strength in the world to work on this project. I spent most of my time cutting away the bushes and fighting through the thorns and ticks. Several hours were spent chopping and carrying away but it was all worth it. At one point, I uncovered a buried tombstone. God knows how long it’s been buried under roots and dirt. The heartbroking part was that the writing on the tombstone was no longer legible. The memory of a person who once lived here is potentially gone forever. We may never know where they rest or who they were.
Time flew while working in this cemetery. I just felt motivated the whole time to work hard at clearing things up in hopes that the cemetery may one day be properly restored. It is a lot of work that requires many people to help with a lot of time available to do so. There is work being done to get local high school students involved. I hope they become inspired to do so. It’s not the most ideal work but it’s good work.
There were moments that had me really upset though. At some point, some tombstones were vandalized by terrible people. The two I remember was on one where a cross was spray painted and it said “Satan Jew.” How classy... Another tomb had spray painted on it “Free Palestine.” The irony being that the individual died before Zionism was a thing. I don’t care who you are or what you believe, but leave the dead alone! I wish people had more respect for the dead.
The time in Brzesko is short but I think entirely worthwhile. When people travel to Poland, they typically go to Warsaw and Krakow but that’s not how majority of Poles live. Most live in the calm countryside. It can be argued that that is the real Poland. As our time wraps up in Brzesko, I am thankful for the time spent on the opportunity to do a good deed. This is something where the recipient cannot repay me or even thank me, and that is okay. Weirdly enough, the opportunity to clean the cemetery to the best of my ability was reward enough. I got to bring sunlight back onto some tombstones and help clear bushes away so that they can be seen. That is all I wanted out of this. Back in Charlotte, our cemetery is well-kept and regularly maintained so it can be easy to be unappreciative of what that work really does. I’ve gotten to see the massive difference between well-kept cemeteries and forgotten cemeteries. There is a lot of work to be done and there are great people stepping up to the plate.
We can only hope they succeed.
~Noah Goldman

Auschwitz-Birkenau

Please, forgive me for getting personal but one cannot express the magnitude of such a place without sharing their history - especially if one is a Jew.

The day has come. Today, I walk into the valley of the shadow of death. Rather cliche of a phrase but certainly appropriate. It is a place I have heard so much about. A place I haveread so much about. A place that has caused so much  of an ever-lasting pain. A place that ended families and legacies. A place that reveals the suffering that humanity can bring to this world. Today, that is where I go.

Arbeit Macht Frei. Work Makes You Free. Those are the first words one sees when they walk into the camp. Walking under those words, one cannot help but imagine the prisoners walking on those same grounds. It is hard to get control of your thoughts as you enter the camp. That's just the first thing you see and feel as you enter the camp. This is just the beginning. Arbeit Macht Frei.

As we went through the camp, I saw the most daunting of things - the personal items. The suitcases, the clothes, the hair. Items that belonged to the victims. The hair exhibit is as close to the victims that you can physically get to and looking at it is almost unfathomable. There is a small exhibit at Auschwitz, with projections across the room, that shows videos of Nazi speeches that dehumanized Jews. The speeches were met with thunderous applause. You then get to see Hitler scream and rant about his evil thoughts on Jews. That is when anger set. Those speeches laid the foundation for what Auschwitz would become and thus burning 1.1 million people.

Later on, there was a beautiful exhibit of videos of Jewish life prior to the Second World War. It seemed like a place of happiness and comfort. It was peaceful, showing people smiling and being with their family and loved ones. A simple time revealed through individuals before the darkness would consume their lives. They never saw the horrors that would overshadow the light that once was.

It was Auschwitz II (also known as Birkenau) that was challenging to walk through. Birkenau was the exterminational element of the camp. The conditions that existed were beyond horrendous. I had a hard enough time just standing there. As I walked the beaten path, I imagined those who walked on it during the Holocaust and wondering what was going on through their minds. As you walk further down, you can see where the gas chambers were. The Germans destroyed them but remnants remain and we can see how it was used. Somehow, I haven’t cried yet. Somehow.

After it all, we as a group circled and said the mourner’s Kaddish (prayer for mourning), which I had not had to do before. That was a small moment of power to me.

After the tour of Auschwitz Birkenau, we sat down and reflected on our experiences and our thoughts with Sister Mary O’Sullivan of the Auschwitz Center for Dialogue and Prayer. She is a wonderful and sweet Irish Catholic nun and I am thankful that I got to reflect with her about my experience at the camp. At this point, all I could say was that I was still processing what I had seen and what it had meant. Again, I had known of Auschwitz-Birkenau since I was a child. I had read it in books and seen it in films. I even talked with survivors of the camp. But to be there on those grounds was an element separate from all I had learned. There’s no right way to emotionally prepare yourself for Auschwitz-Birkenau but nevertheless, it is important to see it with your own eyes and feel the earth it stands on through the soles of your feet. The grounds that its victims walked.

After reflecting further, I still didn’t know what to make of my experience. I asked Sister O’Sullivan about those thoughts and she told me something that will stick with me forever. She said “Let it sit with you and when you’re ready, let it speak to you.” What does that mean. I hope in reading this again in the future, I will have some answers to what Sister O'Sullivan said.

As I reflect on those words, I in some way felt defeated and overwhelmed. That’s when the number six million hit me. Six million people who shared my faith and peoplehood. Six million people murdered just because of their faith. Just because of my faith. I felt unwanted by the world, just floating in the nothingness. The fact that my people suffered this way and yet there are those that exist who simply do not care. There are those who still hate me not for me but for my faith. Why? How, after all this, can people still hate the Jews? As these thoughts hit me on the bus ride back to Krakow, that’s when the tears hit me.

I feel small, smaller than I’ve ever felt before in my life. But despite that and with the tears running down my face, I feel proud. I am proud of my culture and what it brings to the world. I am proud that despite all odds, it survives and thrives to this day. I am proud that despite it all, I can stand on the grounds of Auschwitz-Birkenau because it failed. It failed to exterminate me and for me to stand on its grounds is the greatest form of rebellion against evil. I stand on those grounds and I say “Never Again!” This experience will stick with me forever.

*Update as of December 2019*

It has now been a year and a half since I walked the grounds of Auschwitz-Birkenau. It is a little hard for me to reread this without tearing up a bit. Perhaps that speaks to the magnitude of the experience of walking on Auschwitz-Birkenau and the thoughts that came with being there. I am still trying to find out what the words that Sister O'Sullivan said to me. I am going to Israel in about a month. Maybe I'll find an answer there. 

Krakow - The Surviving City

Krakow is a beautiful city with a fascinating history. I don’t know if I could say it is my favorite city but I had a lot of fun walking around the city, looking at the history, and exploring its past. As with the theme of this trip, we focused a lot on its Jewish history. Unlike Warsaw, much of Krakow was not destroyed during the war and so much remains of old Jewish Krakow in the part of the city called Kazimierz. Prior to the war, 65,000 Jews lived in Krakow and even though there are significantly less today, the remnants of their past exist today. One way is through it’s cemeteries. They aren’t in as bad a shape as other ones but they need help. A lot of them go back hundreds of years with each grave telling a story. In some way, that’s what is so amazing about cemeteries. They help preserve memory. They of course aren’t perfect at that but nevertheless they help. The sad part is that when the Germans occupied Poland, they pushed all the Jews into a ghetto to later be deported. This severely damaged Krakovian Jewry.
But, the light shines on today. In Krakow, exists a Jewish Community Center that is now 10 years old.  I had the privilege of having dinner at the center. My favorite part of traveling is conversation over food and drink. One thing that people would love to see happen is the community rebuild itself to what it was prior to 1939. I don’t know if that is possible. What I do know is that there is a growing community that exists there and they’re doing amazing things in Krakow. It isn’t fair to judge the community based on its past, so rather help it for the future.
Krakow is a great city with ancient history existing in the present. The sites of the city are beyond gorgeous. Museums and monuments are everywhere to see and worth it.
~Noah Goldman

Jewish Warsaw - 1,000 Years to Today

I of course, started my day off right with coffee and eggs. We started the program today by going to the remnants of the Warsaw Ghetto. Not much of the ghetto stands today as it was destroyed when the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended. Interestingly enough, on May 16th, 1943 the Great Synagogue of Warsaw was destroyed by the nazis thus symbolizing the end of the Uprising. This tour that I went on today is the 75th anniversary of the end of the uprising. I'm not sure what to make of the fact that of all days I am visiting the remnants of the ghetto is on this day of all days. Again, aside from a few buildings, not much remains. Much of the ghetto was destroyed and buildings were built on top of its ashes. But its history lives on in the memories and documents that were saved.

Remaining wall from the Warsaw Ghetto. If you look at the background, on the right you'll see a building from the communist era and on the left you'll see a skyscraper built when free-market capitalism came.

This building also survived from the destruction of the ghetto. After the war, it was renovated and used for the Department of Psychology for the University of Warsaw.

We continue walking through the area and finally come a monument to Mordechai Anielewicz and the other brave Jewish resisters who fought valiantly against the nazis but were ultimately killed. Despite being outnumbered and outgunned, they fought for 28 days. What is unfortunate is that it can be argued that the violence did not have to reach that point if the international community cared about the well-being of European Jewry. What was happening in Warsaw was not a secret. The BBC shared news of Jewish suffering in Warsaw and the Polish Government-in-Exile in London shared the news as well. No one cared so no one did anything and the international community ignored them at their peril. 

 

Myself (caught off-guard) at the memorial for Mordechai Anielewicz and the other fighters and planners of the Uprising. 

Group picture in front of Warsaw Ghetto Uprising monument in front of POLIN Museum. 

After our tour of the remains of the ghetto, we went to the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews. It was a self-guided tour so I was able to go at my own pace and absorb the information as I wanted to. The only thing was I had only a little over two hours. The museum was incredible! It documented Jewish life in Poland back over 1,000 years ago. As Jews were fleeing persecution throughout Europe, they heard of a country called Polin. Polin is a word that exists in the Hebrew language meaning 'you will rest here' so it is believed that they saw it as a prophecy that they could live peacefully there. 

For a long time, they were correct. Many Polish kings were tolerant of Jews allowing them to practice their religion in peace and even appointing Jews to high positions in the kingdom. Quite often when an antisemitic pogrom took place, it was operated by individuals and not by the state which is starkly different than the rest of Europe. It all started coming to an end with the attacks of the Cossacks. The Cossacks were violent and blood-thirsty. They would loot, destroy, rape, and kill. Poles and Jewish communities throughout Poland suffered heavily by the Cossacks. The intolerance would continue throughout history. 

This quote, made in 1920, was unfortunately more accurate than what the speaker intended. 

The end of World War I led to the rise and increased popularity of extremist politics on the far-left and the far-right. For the most part, Jews were hated by both. They were hated by the far-left for "inventing" capitalism and hated by the far-right for "inventing" communism. These are blood libels. Both are show a misunderstanding of Jewish involvement in politics, history, and economics. There were Jews who were capitalists and Jews who were communists. Adam Smith was not Jewish and Karl Marx's father was a Jew who abandoned the faith before Marx was born and Marx was an atheist so his works was not influenced by Judaism. Nevertheless, blood libels persisted. 

These blood libels, that mind you are very easy to prove they are lies, were used to justify the persecution and abandonment of the Jews. Even though some Jews were active in political extremism, it did not protect them from what was to come - the Holocaust. 

This is where I will stop with sharing the story told by the POLIN Museum for two reasons. 1. I could honestly write a book on this because there is so much information to share and 2. I encourage you to go see this wonderful museum for yourself when the opportunity arises. It really is an incredible museum and I learned a lot! 

After the museum we went to another Jewish cemetery in Warsaw called the Brodno Jewish Cemetery which is the oldest, existing cemetery in Warsaw which opened in 1780. The Brodno Cemetery is in a forest and before you walk down the path, you see a beautiful forest with a peaceful path with a few tombstones by the side. 

But, there is something disturbing about Brodno. No tombstones is in its original spot. Below, I will share some pictures I took that show what the cemetery looks like today. 

These are broken tombstones that will never be placed back together properly and no one knows where the person they were placed for lays in the earth. 

One of my friends said while walking through the cemetery that it looks like "a massacre of tombstones." Brodno was spared by the nazis wrath which comes a surprise to many. So who did this? The Soviets. After the war, Poland fell behind the Iron Curtain and the Russians wanted to try and erase Jewish history in Poland and one of the ways they tried to do that was by destroying Brodno. The Soviets bulldozed the city and some of the tombstones that were there for over two hundred years were used to build homes, paths, and other things. What the Soviets did here was disgusting and leaves a painful sight. 

In Hebrew, Israel mean to "struggle with God." I always thought that struggle was during our lives and in the afterlife, I never thought our bodies that we leave behind would continue to struggle whether it be against nature or man's disturbing ideologies. Because of the Soviets, many names are lost, more than likely forever. We will never know where they are buried and there will never be closure. I left Brodno Cemetery with more disdain for the Soviets with the pain that they left behind in this old cemetery in Warsaw. 

We concluded the day in a better light. We went to visit the Jewish Community Center of Warsaw which does amazing work not just in the city but throughout the country. We got to sit down and have dinner with Alicia Mroczkowska, who works with the Jewish Historical Institute. The JCC works hard to preserve Poland's old cemeteries which trust me, is very hard work. But they also have community events such as Hebrew study, meals for guests, support for members in need of help, and so much more. They fed us well. I had a delicious soup (I sadly can't remember what type of soup but it was vegetarian), salads, falafel, hummus, and other yummy foods. We had a discussion on Jewish life in Warsaw in the contemporary. I asked Alicia if she knew what the Jewish population of Warsaw is today and she said "nobody knows." Perhaps that is a question too painful to know the answer to. All in all, it was a very impactful and heavy day. I learned so much and yet have so much more to learn. I am excited about what the rest of this journey holds.

~Noah Goldman

Day One in the Phoenix City

Finally, the first full day in Warsaw commences. I started the day at 7:00 a.m. and walked a little bit around the old town which is where our hostel is located. I of course, go for a delicious latte at Costa Coffee in which I will get plenty more coffee from in my time here.

Believe it or not, this is a medium sized latte. I'm scared to know what the large looks like. 

We started the program with a walking tour of Warsaw with a passionate and knowledgeable tour guide. Our program is with the Taube Center for the Renewal of Jewish Life in Warsaw, a fantastic group working to keep the memories and stories of Jewish Poland alive. Prior to September 1st, 1939, Warsaw had the second largest Jewish community in the world right behind New York City at over 300,000 people. The community suffered tremendously during the Second Workd War. I will get more into this as the trip goes on and you will learn of this through the sights I visit. Don’t worry, I’ll post pictures.
Our tour took us around the city to what is considered the Old Town, which isn’t actually that old because it was rebuilt in the 1950’s after the Second World War after the devastation that the city suffered. We also walked into what used to be the Warsaw Ghetto and the modern buildings that were built over its remains. For example, what used to be the Great Synagogue of Warsaw was destroyed by the nazis and today a MetLife building is over where it used to stand. I don’t know the reasoning so it would be unfair for me to judge at this time.
It’s a little weird to walk in a place that was devastated and destroyed. It seems that the post-communist era is one of the best times for Poland in its history. Where I stand is where unimaginable suffering occurred and chances are, I’ve walked over unmarked and unknown graves without ever possibly knowing.
We then, after lunch went to the Emmanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute. There, we learned about the efforts of many Jews in the Warsaw Ghetto to document their experiences so that their suffering would not be lost in time. I have to say, the hardest part was reading personal narratives of the ghetto residents. One person said they were envious of the dead because they didn’t have to suffer from the nazis any further.

One of the milk cartons used to hide the Ringelblum Archives to keep the stories of the ghetto alive throughout history. 

After our visit, we went to the Okipawa Jewish Cemetery. It was one of the few Jewish cemeteries to survive the nazi destruction during the Second World War. It is a large cemetery with tombstones dating back to the early 1800’s.

Okipawa Jewish Cemetery 

Mass grave site at the cemetery. Jews who were executed by the nazis were put in this mass grave site at the cemetery out of convenience. There are two known mass graves in the cemetery but there are several throughout the country. 

Some graves were knocked over whether it be because of vandalism or nature. Repairing the damages are incredibly difficult. 

Sunlight on the old graves at the Okipawa Cemetery. Today, they do about 25 funerals a year.

Janusz Korczak - Read his story; it is incredible. There is a good chance you'll cry. 

All in all it was a very impactful first day in Warsaw. What disturbs me is that in the case of cemeteries in Warsaw, there is no peace after death. Whether it be man or nature, these elements disturb the dead and rob them of the respect, peace, and silence they deserve. I hope at the very least, their souls are at peace and hopefully this journey of preserving memory will be successful in starting something important. That we can treat the living with respect and that they still receive that respect even after they are gone. 

~Noah Goldman